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Stuck Spark Plug

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Don.Alexander(at)astenjoh
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 11:17 am Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug

Listers,

I had to take a break from my airplane project recently in order to sell

my now-deceased step father's truck.  (93 Toyota 4 cyl. 133k miles)  It

hasn't had much done to it in the way of p.m. other than oil changes

along the way. It had a stutter which I traced to a bad ignition wire

which was fixed with a new set of plug wires.  I figured that as long as

I was taking the time to change the wires, I might as well change the

plugs.  Three of the four came out with no problem.  The fourth backed

out about a quarter of a turn and wouldn't move any further.  I am using

a 8" ratchet handle and am putting quite a bit of force on it.  I have

heard that with too much force, you can shear off a plug...that would

not be good.  I have applied some penetrating oil, but so far, no luck.

Would an impact wrench be a bad solution?

PS- The plugs that I am putting back in are getting thread lube on them



Thanks

Do not archive

Tinman

RV-8 Finishing Kit

BPA(at)bpaengines.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 12:32 pm Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug

And that's the problem with spark plug #4. More than likely it has

galled the threads. I see a Heli-Coil repair coming! 



Allen Barrett

--

rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 12:33 pm Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug

I had this happen once. If what happened to me is happening to you, its too late, the threads are already galled and the more the spark plug is removed the more the threads are taken with it.



"Alexander, Don" <Don.Alexander(at)astenjohnson.com> wrote:  



Listers,

I had to take a break from my airplane project recently in order to sell

my now-deceased step father's truck. (93 Toyota 4 cyl. 133k miles) It

hasn't had much done to it in the way of p.m. other than oil changes

along the way. It had a stutter which I traced to a bad ignition wire

which was fixed with a new set of plug wires. I figured that as long as

I was taking the time to change the wires, I might as well change the

plugs. Three of the four came out with no problem. The fourth backed

out about a quarter of a turn and wouldn't move any further. I am using

a 8" ratchet handle and am putting quite a bit of force on it. I have

heard that with too much force, you can shear off a plug...that would

not be good. I have applied some penetrating oil, but so far, no luck.

Would an impact wrench be a bad solution?

PS- The plugs that I am putting back in are getting thread lube on them



Thanks

Do not archive

Tinman

RV-8 Finishing Kit

Scott Bilinski

RV-8a

cell 858-395-5094

		

---------------------------------

 Photo Books. You design it and well bind it!

edchmiel(at)mindspring.co
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 12:57 pm Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug

Hi Don,



        Sounds like it may be binding due to corrosion.   Try som 'PB 

Blaster' or other penetrant, work the plug back inward then ease it out. 

The threads in the head may be deteriorating, and you may be able to salvage 

the head with a Helicoil kit.  Good luck!



Ed in JXN



---

longg(at)pjm.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 1:02 pm Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug

Get heat on that plug, lots of heat. Don't melt it, but with enough heat it will

come out. The plug is softer than the block and will heat up quickly. You are

correct, you do not want to break it off (although you will probably just break

the tip).



--

dancfi(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 6:11 pm Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug

"Hi Don

  Same thing happened to me on an old Mitsubishi pick up I bought.  As one of the other posts said I used PB blaster very day for a week after driving it.I then worked the plug in and out a little more each day. After five days I shot it one last time and grunted with a braker bar. It came out. So did a few threads but not enough to hurt anything. New plug went rite in.

   The old Piper service manuals suggested running the engine until hot and making a paper cone / funnel . After fitting the small end over the plug you give it a shot of CO2 (the cold stuff in fire extingwisher) The extreme cold is supposed to shrink the plug enough to free it up. Sounds good in theory never saw it done thou.   Good luck!            

                                                                                            Dan       

		

---------------------------------

 Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, whatever.

archie97(at)earthlink.net
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 6:43 pm Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug

Have used that method several times.

And yes, it does work.

If the plug rotates a bit, you can also heat the area up,

and place some wax around the threads, (keeping the plug

in the center of the free area.).

It will melt into crevices, and not evaporate.

Amazing how well this frequently works.

Archie



---

tedd(at)vansairforce.org
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 10:16 pm Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug

On automotive engines I have always used Copaslip or a similar,

high-temperature anti-sieze compound on the spark plug threads.  But many years

ago someone told that that this is a bad idea on engines with air cooled

cylinder heads, due to lowering the heat transfer between the plug and the

head.  I've always thought this advice had "old wives tale" written all over

it, but it has nevertheless prevented me from using anti-sieze compound on

aircraft engines.  Am I worried about nothing?



---



Tedd McHenry

Surrey, BC, Canada

archie97(at)earthlink.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:06 am Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug

Aircraft plug manufacturers recommend using

a light anti seize compound on the threads, avoiding

getting any on the "nose" of the plug.

Most have their own, which is a bit thinner than

the more conventional anti-seize.



---

lehmans(at)sympatico.ca
Guest

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:24 am Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug

Tedd,



It is more important to use anti-seize on air cooled aircraft engines

because the aluminum head and therefore the threaded head-to-plug joint runs

much hotter than with liquid cooled engines.



I not seen any evidence that anti-seize affects plug temperature; it might

even reduce it by increasing thread contact area with the head.  In any

event, I believe that any such change is negligible relative to other

factors.



I use anti-seize on all spark plugs used with aluminum heads (both air and

liquid cooled), either the usual paste type or plain graphite powder.  I

suggest that the very long plug maintenance intervals with modern cars and

poor access with most V engines (to the plugs for 'rear' cylinders) makes

anti-seize increasingly important.



Mike ('with' aluminum Lycoming and aluminum auto heads)




On automotive engines I have always used Copaslip or a similar,

high-temperature anti-sieze compound on the spark plug threads.  But many

years

ago someone told that that this is a bad idea on engines with air cooled

cylinder heads, due to lowering the heat transfer between the plug and the

head.  I've always thought this advice had "old wives tale" written all over

it, but it has nevertheless prevented me from using anti-sieze compound on

aircraft engines.  Am I worried about nothing?



---



Tedd McHenry

Surrey, BC, Canada




--

longg(at)pjm.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 6:39 am Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug

Don't bother, just add heat. I noticed you live in B.C.; Add more heat than

usual.



--

truflite(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 8:13 am Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug

On our club aircraft, we do 50 hour inspections and

oil changes.  Every inspection includes spark plug

cleaning and regapping.  Before the plugs are

re-installed, a very small amount of Champion Spark

Plug Lubricant is applied to the threads.  I must

emphasize, a very small amount is used.  Over a period

of 2000 hours, that amounts 40 times the spark plugs

are removed and re-installed.



Dave

--- Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>

 

 On automotive engines I have always used Copaslip or

 a similar,

 high-temperature anti-sieze compound on the spark

 plug threads.  But many years

 ago someone told that that this is a bad idea on

 engines with air cooled

 cylinder heads, due to lowering the heat transfer

 between the plug and the

 head.  I've always thought this advice had "old

 wives tale" written all over

 it, but it has nevertheless prevented me from using

 anti-sieze compound on

 aircraft engines.  Am I worried about nothing?

 

 ---

 

 Tedd McHenry

 Surrey, BC, Canada

 

 

 

 



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 Admin.

GrummanDude

Joined: 15 Jan 2006
Posts: 926
Location: Auburn, CA

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 10:48 am Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug

I use the Permatex 'silver' anti-seize compound.   I've never had any 

problems with it.

_________________
Gary
AuCountry Aviation
Home of Team Grumman

GrummanDude

Joined: 15 Jan 2006
Posts: 926
Location: Auburn, CA

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 10:50 am Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug

I did have a plug stick in a cylinder head on an O540 in a Commanche.   When 

the plug came out, the heli-coil came with it.   THe owner claimed he always 

used the Champion anti-seize.   I've always used the Permatex anti-seize and 

I've been very happy with it.

_________________
Gary
AuCountry Aviation
Home of Team Grumman

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