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Lynn Matteson
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan
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 Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 10:04 am Post subject: Brake Bleeder |
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Noel-
I have bled brakes on cars by using the second method...the one where
the hose from the (top-mounted) bleeder valve is inserted into a
glass container with brake fluid covering the end of the hose. I then
open the bleeder valve (certainly NOT a two-man job as your
instructions say) and climb into the car and depress the brake pedal
a few times, usually hanging my head upside-down out of the car so I
can see the action going on inside the glass container. When the
bubbles stop forming, and the fluid is clear, I climb out of the car
and close the bleeder valve. There is NO reason that you have to have
a second person IF the hose end does not get uncovered by the brake
fluid. It's a simple matter of hydraulics and air...if the hose
remains covered by the fluid, when the brake pedal is depressed, air
and/or fluid will be expelled from the end of the hose. When the
pedal is released, fluid will be sucked back into the wheel cylinder,
but the air has risen to the top of the fluid and dissapated. This
process is repeated until no air can be seen bubbling up in the
glass. I have installed a complete 4-wheel brake system on a
homebuilt car and have not had to enlist any help at any point along
the way, and this includes new brake lines and empty cylinders which
are full of air as you can expect.
As far as the first method is concerned, you don't have to have a
hose and container on the reservoir either. Just have an empty
reservoir to begin with, and check periodically for when the fluid is
starting to get near the top. At this point, draw off some of the
fluid from the reservoir, and continue (if necessary) to pump fluid
into the bleeder valve. When all signs of air is gone from the lines
(clear lines, I hope), the job is done....top off the reservoir, and
test the brakes. I've done this potentially messy job alone and have
not made a mess either on the ground or inside the plane....well,
maybe a *little* mess on the ground, because the hose-to-bleeder
screw connection sometimes is not absolutely leakproof and drips a bit.
This is not a complicated job to do if you know how many pumps of the
oil can will empty it, and how many pumps will overflow the
reservoir. Don't exceed either of the numbers. Keep track of the
number of pumps, and fill the pumper before you are pumping air, and
empty the reservoir before it fills, and the job will be simple and
clean.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
On Apr 19, 2009, at 12:55 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
| Quote: | I, like most of us have been following this thread with a little
interest to see what direction it will take. While it is true that
you can do basically whatever you want with an amateur built plane
there are still recognized procedures for doing specific tasks.
This is the one described in the Jeppsen A&P Technician Airframe
Textbook. After all the years they have been training A&Ps I guess
they have some idea what they are talking about.. Please pardon
any typos you find.
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_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM |
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Fox5flyer
Guest
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| Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 10:33 am Post subject: Brake Bleeder |
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This way will work just fine using the oil can method, but there is a
way you can avoid all that counting and making a mess from fluid coming up
out of the master cylinder and that's to put a small barb fitting into the
fill hole and run a long piece of clear tubing into a jar where you can see
it. This way you can keep pumping with the oil can and even if the master
cylinder over flows, it won't matter. Just don't make the mistake of
running out of fluid in the pumper.
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 402+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but progress."
- Joseph Joubert
..snip>
| Quote: | As far as the first method is concerned, you don't have to have a hose
and container on the reservoir either. Just have an empty reservoir to
begin with, and check periodically for when the fluid is starting to get
near the top. At this point, draw off some of the fluid from the
reservoir, and continue (if necessary) to pump fluid into the bleeder
valve. When all signs of air is gone from the lines (clear lines, I
hope), the job is done....top off the reservoir, and test the brakes.
I've done this potentially messy job alone and have not made a mess
either on the ground or inside the plane....well, maybe a *little* mess
on the ground, because the hose-to-bleeder screw connection sometimes is
not absolutely leakproof and drips a bit.
This is not a complicated job to do if you know how many pumps of the oil
can will empty it, and how many pumps will overflow the reservoir. Don't
exceed either of the numbers. Keep track of the number of pumps, and fill
the pumper before you are pumping air, and empty the reservoir before it
fills, and the job will be simple and clean.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
On Apr 19, 2009, at 12:55 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
> I, like most of us have been following this thread with a little
> interest to see what direction it will take. While it is true that you
> can do basically whatever you want with an amateur built plane there are
> still recognized procedures for doing specific tasks.
>
> This is the one described in the Jeppsen A&P Technician Airframe
> Textbook. After all the years they have been training A&Ps I guess they
> have some idea what they are talking about.. Please pardon any typos
> you find.
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Fox5flyer
Guest
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| Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 10:40 am Post subject: Brake Bleeder |
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Sorry, where I said master cylinder (below) I meant reservoir.
D
| Quote: | This way will work just fine using the oil can method, but there is a
way you can avoid all that counting and making a mess from fluid coming up
out of the master cylinder and that's to put a small barb fitting into the
fill hole and run a long piece of clear tubing into a jar where you can
see it. This way you can keep pumping with the oil can and even if the
master cylinder over flows, it won't matter. Just don't make the mistake
of running out of fluid in the pumper.
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 402+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but
progress."
- Joseph Joubert
...snip>
> As far as the first method is concerned, you don't have to have a hose
> and container on the reservoir either. Just have an empty reservoir to
> begin with, and check periodically for when the fluid is starting to get
> near the top. At this point, draw off some of the fluid from the
> reservoir, and continue (if necessary) to pump fluid into the bleeder
> valve. When all signs of air is gone from the lines (clear lines, I
> hope), the job is done....top off the reservoir, and test the brakes.
> I've done this potentially messy job alone and have not made a mess
> either on the ground or inside the plane....well, maybe a *little* mess
> on the ground, because the hose-to-bleeder screw connection sometimes is
> not absolutely leakproof and drips a bit.
>
> This is not a complicated job to do if you know how many pumps of the
> oil can will empty it, and how many pumps will overflow the reservoir.
> Don't exceed either of the numbers. Keep track of the number of pumps,
> and fill the pumper before you are pumping air, and empty the reservoir
> before it fills, and the job will be simple and clean.
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
> Sensenich 62x46
> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> Status: flying
>
>
> On Apr 19, 2009, at 12:55 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>
>> I, like most of us have been following this thread with a little
>> interest to see what direction it will take. While it is true that you
>> can do basically whatever you want with an amateur built plane there
>> are still recognized procedures for doing specific tasks.
>>
>>
>>
>> This is the one described in the Jeppsen A&P Technician Airframe
>> Textbook. After all the years they have been training A&Ps I guess
>> they have some idea what they are talking about.. Please pardon any
>> typos you find.
>
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Lynn Matteson
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan
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| Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 3:18 pm Post subject: Brake Bleeder |
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But you still have the problem of removing the barbed fitting, and
the few drops that will spill therefrom. I don't mind the counting,
or the occasional inserting of a "dipstick" to see how full the
reservoir is getting. When I helped my friend bleed his Waiex today,
the pumper never ran out, maybe because he is using 1/8" brake lines
and the air bubbles move pretty quick due to the smaller volume. He
also has a clear reservoir, so that makes the overflow problem a no-
brainer.
Of course this is with the independent reservoir, not the master
cylinder with integral reservoir.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
On Apr 19, 2009, at 2:33 PM, fox5flyer wrote:
| Quote: |
<fox5flyer(at)idealwifi.net>
This way will work just fine using the oil can method, but there
is a way you can avoid all that counting and making a mess from
fluid coming up out of the master cylinder and that's to put a
small barb fitting into the fill hole and run a long piece of clear
tubing into a jar where you can see it. This way you can keep
pumping with the oil can and even if the master cylinder over
flows, it won't matter. Just don't make the mistake of running
out of fluid in the pumper.
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 402+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but
progress."
- Joseph Joubert
|
| | - The Matronics Kitfox-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List |
|
_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM |
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Float Flyr
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland
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