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Low voltage problem in a new plane- New readings

 
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lgold(at)quantum-associat
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 10:24 pm    Post subject: Low voltage problem in a new plane- New readings Reply with quote

Bob,

I took some added measurements regarding the possible voltage drop problem
(see earlier email, below) but the results are not consistent. I setup the
Dynon 180 to see buss voltage and current draw. When I started up the
engine with a fully charged battery the over/under voltage (o/v) light,
which is triggered at 12.5V, did not come on although Dynon was saying the
buss was only at 11.8 volts. I flew around for 15-minutes while drawing
between 2 and 4 amps from an ICOM portable VHF and the Dynon. Then I put on
some current hogs like the 50-watt landing light and the strobes. The Dynon
reading dropped to 11.6 volts and the o/v light finally did come on at cruse
RPM. I was drawing about 8-amps at the time according to Dynon. I turned off
the high-draw stuff and the o/v light went off. After flying around for
about 30-minutes I landed. On the ground, even when running up at 4300-RPM
(cruse RPM is 5000) the o/v light came on and stayed on even with minimal
current draw. I turned off the engine and found the voltage across the
battery, measured with a voltmeter, to be 12.8V, which dropped to 12.6V
after turning on the Dynon, which was now reading 11.6V.

Based upon what you told me plus some speculation I am guessing that the
Dynon voltage reading is not correct and should be ignored I also guess
that the battery did not discharge in flight and the voltage regulator was
pumping juice into it as it should be since the battery was at 12.8V when
measured after the flight.

I plan to ignore the light and keep flying. Even if the battery discharges
the ignition should still work (I think it has its own generator) and both
the Dynon and the ICOM radio have internal batteries that will keep going
for an hour or more.

Is the ultimate solution to just stop displaying the Dynon voltage and to
use a much lower intensity, less annoying o/v light?

Thanks again for your help, and have a great New Year.
Les

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glastar(at)gmx.net
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 1:06 am    Post subject: Low voltage problem in a new plane- New readings Reply with quote

Les,

the 1V drop looks like you have the Dynon hooked up behind a diode (1V
voltage drop) do you have somewhere a electrical drawing of your system?

However, when we take into account the 1V drop you would have only 12.8V
charging on your system, which is a bit low so I would suggest you look
at your regulator probably the set point is to (should be between 13.8
and 14.2).

br

Werner

Les Goldner wrote:
[quote]

Bob,

I took some added measurements regarding the possible voltage drop problem
(see earlier email, below) but the results are not consistent. I setup the
Dynon 180 to see buss voltage and current draw. When I started up the
engine with a fully charged battery the over/under voltage (o/v) light,
which is triggered at 12.5V, did not come on although Dynon was saying the
buss was only at 11.8 volts. I flew around for 15-minutes while drawing
between 2 and 4 amps from an ICOM portable VHF and the Dynon. Then I put on
some current hogs like the 50-watt landing light and the strobes. The Dynon
reading dropped to 11.6 volts and the o/v light finally did come on at cruse
RPM. I was drawing about 8-amps at the time according to Dynon. I turned off
the high-draw stuff and the o/v light went off. After flying around for
about 30-minutes I landed. On the ground, even when running up at 4300-RPM
(cruse RPM is 5000) the o/v light came on and stayed on even with minimal
current draw. I turned off the engine and found the voltage across the
battery, measured with a voltmeter, to be 12.8V, which dropped to 12.6V
after turning on the Dynon, which was now reading 11.6V.

Based upon what you told me plus some speculation I am guessing that the
Dynon voltage reading is not correct and should be ignored I also guess
that the battery did not discharge in flight and the voltage regulator was
pumping juice into it as it should be since the battery was at 12.8V when
measured after the flight.

I plan to ignore the light and keep flying. Even if the battery discharges
the ignition should still work (I think it has its own generator) and both
the Dynon and the ICOM radio have internal batteries that will keep going
for an hour or more.

Is the ultimate solution to just stop displaying the Dynon voltage and to
use a much lower intensity, less annoying o/v light?

Thanks again for your help, and have a great New Year.
Les


> --


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jindoguy(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 7:03 am    Post subject: Low voltage problem in a new plane- New readings Reply with quote

Les, Wouldn't the ultimate solution be to pull the Dynon and get it serviced to make sure it's all right? You paid for all the features of the unit, why not get them tested and or repaired so you really know what's going on?

Rick

On Dec 31, 2007 3:03 AM, Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net (glastar(at)gmx.net)> wrote:
[quote] --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net (glastar(at)gmx.net)>

Les,

the 1V drop looks like you have the Dynon hooked up behind a diode (1V
voltage drop) do you have somewhere a electrical drawing of your system?

However, when we take into account the 1V drop you would have only 12.8V
charging on your system, which is a bit low so I would suggest you look
at your regulator probably the set point is to (should be between 13.8
and 14.2).

br

Werner
Les Goldner wrote:
Quote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Les Goldner" < lgold(at)quantum-associates.com (lgold(at)quantum-associates.com)>

Bob,

I took some added measurements regarding the possible voltage drop problem
(see earlier email, below) but the results are not consistent. I setup the
Dynon 180 to see buss voltage and current draw. When I started up the
engine with a fully charged battery the over/under voltage (o/v) light,
which is triggered at 12.5V, did not come on although Dynon was saying the
buss was only at 11.8 volts. I flew around for 15-minutes while drawing
between 2 and 4 amps from an ICOM portable VHF and the Dynon. Then I put on
some current hogs like the 50-watt landing light and the strobes. The Dynon
reading dropped to 11.6 volts and the o/v light finally did come on at cruse
RPM. I was drawing about 8-amps at the time according to Dynon. I turned off
the high-draw stuff and the o/v light went off. After flying around for
about 30-minutes I landed. On the ground, even when running up at 4300-RPM
(cruse RPM is 5000) the o/v light came on and stayed on even with minimal
current draw. I turned off the engine and found the voltage across the
battery, measured with a voltmeter, to be 12.8V, which dropped to 12.6V
after turning on the Dynon, which was now reading 11.6V.

Based upon what you told me plus some speculation I am guessing that the
Dynon voltage reading is not correct and should be ignored I also guess
that the battery did not discharge in flight and the voltage regulator was
pumping juice into it as it should be since the battery was at 12.8V when
measured after the flight.

I plan to ignore the light and keep flying. Even if the battery discharges
the ignition should still work (I think it has its own generator) and both
> the Dynon and the ICOM radio have internal batteries that will keep going

[quote] for an hour or more.

Is the ultimate solution to just stop displaying the Dynon voltage and to
use a much lower intensity, less annoying o/v light?

Thanks again for your help, and have a great New Year.
Les
> --


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