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Damaged Head Screw Removal

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jesse(at)saintaviation.co
Guest

Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 7:10 pm Post subject: Damaged Head Screw Removal

I decided to change the name of the thread to bring it onto the new topic.

 I have had good success with "Easy Outs" that can be purchased at ?most?

hardware stores.  Just chuck them up in a drill, put it on reverse, and

pull the trigger very slowly (a good cordless drill with great speed

control is a plus here).  It works very well and takes almost no time at

all.  It beats the socks off drilling IMHO.



do not archive



Jesse Saint

Saint Aviation, Inc.

jesse(at)saintaviation.com

www.saintaviation.com

352-427-0285



MauleDriver wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Well, it looks like I'm going to remove both of them - perhaps the right

 for no particular reason.  However, the fact that a couple of screws

 aren't coming out, I'm glad I'm finding that out now when it's

 relatively easy to fix.



 These are my first stripped screw heads - looks like it's time to drill

 and use a screw extractor of some sort on at least one of them.  I've

 never done this before.  Looking at an extractor in Spruce's catalog.

 What are any of you using?

 David Maib wrote:

> 

>

> I had problems with a few of the screws not wanting to come out, too.

> Twisted the head off of one of them. The plans said to remove the

> tanks, so I did. Have installed the senders, repaired a dent that I

> put in one leading edge, leak checked, and they are now ready to go

> back on. However, it is a little easier to finish the stall warning

> system, wiring, pitot system, etc. with the tanks off. I am also

> installing SafeAir1 extended range tanks, so the main tanks have to be

> off for that reason.

>

> David Maib

> 40559

> wings

>

> do not archive

>

> On Apr 7, 2007, at 10:41 PM, MauleDriver wrote:

>

> 

>

> I'm starting work on my QB wings and trying to think through whether I

> should remove the tanks to inspect, install the senders, test for

> leaks, ease access for other parts, etc.    Any comments?

>

> I started removing one and immediately ran into some problems with the

> a few screws not coming out easily.  That alone may be a good reason

> to remove, inspect, and re-install.

>

> Thanks for comments.

>

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MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2007 1:52 pm Post subject: Damaged Head Screw Removal

Here is what I learned:



A custom made T-handle screw driver made removal a breeze (photo 

attached).  With this driver, leverage can easily be applied as needed.  

I now have no worries about assembly or disassembly or slightly bunged 

up screw heads.  This driver makes all conditions easy to handle.  Much 

better than a brand new Craftsman phillips head driver with a standard 

handle.



A little smear of valve lapping compound on the tip increases the grip 

significantly



There are various types of screw removal tools that can be applied to 

damage screw heads.   After trying several types, I had the best 

experience with a Sears Craftsman "Drill-out "  Micro Power Extractor 

Kit - Model 52157. It is a set 7 double ended power driver tips.  One 

end has a cutter to drill a hole in the head, the other an extractor to 

insert into the hole and drive the screw out.  Good directions were 

included and it worked exactly as described.  Smaller sets are available.



Patience is key but the right tools make it very easy to manage.



Thanks all for the help.



Jesse Saint wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 I decided to change the name of the thread to bring it onto the new topic.

  I have had good success with "Easy Outs" that can be purchased at ?most?

 hardware stores.  Just chuck them up in a drill, put it on reverse, and

 pull the trigger very slowly (a good cordless drill with great speed

 control is a plus here).  It works very well and takes almost no time at

 all.  It beats the socks off drilling IMHO.



 Jesse Saint

 Saint Aviation, Inc.

 jesse(at)saintaviation.com

 www.saintaviation.com

 352-427-0285



 MauleDriver wrote:

   

> 

>

> Well, it looks like I'm going to remove both of them - perhaps the right

> for no particular reason.  However, the fact that a couple of screws

> aren't coming out, I'm glad I'm finding that out now when it's

> relatively easy to fix.

>

> These are my first stripped screw heads - looks like it's time to drill

> and use a screw extractor of some sort on at least one of them.  I've

> never done this before.  Looking at an extractor in Spruce's catalog.

> What are any of you using?

> David Maib wrote:

>     

>> 

>>

>> I had problems with a few of the screws not wanting to come out, too.

>> Twisted the head off of one of them. The plans said to remove the

>> tanks, so I did. Have installed the senders, repaired a dent that I

>> put in one leading edge, leak checked, and they are now ready to go

>> back on. However, it is a little easier to finish the stall warning

>> system, wiring, pitot system, etc. with the tanks off. I am also

>> installing SafeAir1 extended range tanks, so the main tanks have to be

>> off for that reason.

>>

>> David Maib

>> 40559

>> wings

>>

>> do not archive

>>

>> On Apr 7, 2007, at 10:41 PM, MauleDriver wrote:

>>

>> 

>>

>> I'm starting work on my QB wings and trying to think through whether I

>> should remove the tanks to inspect, install the senders, test for

>> leaks, ease access for other parts, etc.    Any comments?

>>

>> I started removing one and immediately ran into some problems with the

>> a few screws not coming out easily.  That alone may be a good reason

>> to remove, inspect, and re-install.

>>

>> Thanks for comments.

>>

>>       

>

>

>

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