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lisaturner(at)prodigy.net
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 Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 5:11 am Post subject: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 04/18/06 |
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The early bird gets the worm as they say . . . . I guess I should have asked for more money! No, no, kidding. I'm pleased the BRS found a home so fast. Lisa
do not archive
Kolb-List Digest Server <kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com> wrote:
*
==================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
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Today's complete Kolb-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
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and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
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such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/kolb-list/Digest.Kolb-List.2006-04-18.html
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http://www.matronics.com/digest/kolb-list/Digest.Kolb-List.2006-04-18.txt
================================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
================================================
Kolb-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Tue 04/18/06: 21
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:16 AM - Re: Nose Fairing, & other parts for the Firestar (DrHook)
2. 05:39 AM - Re: Manual In-cockpit Mixture Control for 2-stroke Engines (Thom Riddle)
3. 06:45 AM - Re: Re: Nose Fairing, & other parts for the Firestar (Richard Girard)
4. 06:45 AM - Re: S&F 2006 Photos and Video Clips (Jack B. Hart)
5. 07:01 AM - MV 2005 (John Hauck)
6. 07:03 AM - Re: Test Flying (pat ladd)
7. 07:24 AM - Re: Monument Valley (Dave & Eve Pelletier)
8. 08:53 AM - TNK (Herb Gayheart)
9. 08:53 AM - Checkout?...I doan need no stinking...... (Beauford)
10. 10:28 AM - 4th Annual Kolb Gathering at Monument Valley, UT (John Williamson)
11. 10:28 AM - 4th Annual Kolb Gathering at Monument Valley, UT (John Williamson)
12. 10:59 AM - In-cockpit mixture control (jratcli256(at)aol.com)
13. 11:04 AM - This is not kolb related but... (Steve Garvelink)
14. 11:33 AM - Re: This is not kolb related but... (Todd Fredricks)
15. 12:47 PM - Re: BRS VLS (Denny Rowe)
16. 02:00 PM - FS 2 Rib jig (Aaron Gustafson)
17. 02:29 PM - Re: In-cockpit mixture control (Richard Pike)
18. 03:18 PM - Re: Kolb-List Digest: 38 Msgs - 04/17/06 (boyd)
19. 03:26 PM - Re: In-cockpit mixture control (John Jung)
20. 04:14 PM - Re: BRS VLS (John Cooley)
21. 07:35 PM - Re: BRS VLS (N111KX (Kip))
________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
Time: 03:16:07 AM PST US
Subject: Re: Nose Fairing, & other parts for the Firestar
From: "DrHook"
Hey, I just noticed there are two Threads here with the same subject that I posted.
So thanks guys and sorry for not replying, Herb, John, Rick, Larry, Bob &
Steve.
So I will post back in both, I guess. Here is what I ended up doing and replying
back to Mike.
Its all good, Mike
I got the day off yesterday, and went to town, to OSH and found this glass bondo
stuff that has shredded peices of fiberglass in it, with a tube of hardener.
It works great, and it was only $8.95 for a can of it.
Per instructions I cut some peices of 4oz fiberglass cloth on the real bad whole
and rips that I didnt use the epoxy, on the inside of the nose fairing, and
filled the wholes & cracks on the outside.
It bonds really well, and drying time is quick. I just got some small Voids to
fill in, and its all about primer & paint.
The epoxy I used was 30 min epoxy, and I know that stuff is not going anywhere.
I think I spent more time just pondering on weather or not to fix it or re-place
it, than it took me to get it done.
Bob E-mailed me with some suggestions on primer & paint thats I will try.
--------
Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29081#29081
________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
Time: 05:39:26 AM PST US
From: Thom Riddle
Subject: Re: Manual In-cockpit Mixture Control for 2-stroke Engines
I once owned a Zenith CH 701 with a 582 and the HAC kit on the carbs.
Worked great. I reset the baseline in the early summer and then again
in the fall after the first frost and that was all there was to it.
EGTs stayed good at all altitudes and plugs stayed gray-brown.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
Time: 06:45:46 AM PST US
From: "Richard Girard"
Subject: Re: Re: Nose Fairing, & other parts for the Firestar
Well darn, Doc. If I'd known you hadn't done the patch yet, I'd have given
you some tips to save a lot of finish work.
Safety first. Always wear saftey glasses when working with epoxy of any
kind. The hardner is a corrosive agent and a splash in the eye will cause
significant damage if not blind you. The doctors in the ER may minimize the
damage but they cannot reverse it. Always wear protection on your hands, I
use Nitrile gloves after I've smeared on a good layer of liquid gloves.
Epoxy causes a rash like reaction on the skin. Some people are more
sensitive than others, but the reaction can be severe enough to lead to
shock and death. If you are not sensitvie, you can create the sensitivity by
repeated exposure. Work in a well ventilated area, the fumes, even from low
odor epoxy can bring on a reaction, too. It sounds scary, but like most
things, it's just a matter of common sense and good work habits.
The Good Doctor got the surface prep correct. You can't make a chemical bond
between the old substrate and the new 'glass, you'll have to settle for a
good mechanical bond, so rough up the area at least 2" on either side of the
area to be patched. 220 grit sandpaper is the stuff to use but make sure it
has no stearates in it as that will effect bond strength.
You need a couple of other things besides fiberglass and resin to make the
repair EZ to finish. Saran wrap, or other plastic sheeting, Peel Ply ( 100%
polyester cloth ), and a few 1" chip brushes for stippling the resin up
through the cloth. you can buy peel ply at the fabric shop, it's known as
dress sheathing. If you buy it there, make sure it has no sizing agent
applied to it. Sizing agents contain silicone and will ruin the bond
strength of the patch and make further repairs or painting very difficult,
if not impossible. Spruce and Wick's have peel ply in 1" to 6" rolls, as
well as cloth. Buy whatever will overlap the edges of the patch 2" all
around.
An aside here, buy new 'glass to make the repair, don't use any cloth that
is dirty or has been wet. First, because you need to know if the cloth is
UNI (unidirectional cloth, having almost all it's strength in one direction)
or BID (bidirectional cloth that has a roughly equal fiber count in either
direction) You want to use BID. Second, because fiberglass cloth has a
wetting agent applied to it at the factory that does two things. It acts as
a lubricant so that the fibers slide past each other when the glass moves
and stretches and it acts to help break the surface tension so the resin can
wet out the 'glass rather than just encapsulate it. This wetting agent can
also be resin specific. If it comes from the auto parts store the 'glass
could have a wetting agent that works with polyester resin, but not with
epoxy. The kid at the counter will probably have no clue, should you ask. If
in doubt go to a boat shop or better yet, just order the BID cloth approved
by Burt Rutan for his aircraft from Spruce or Wick's. You'll know if the
resin is wetting out the cloth if the cloth changes color to that of the
resin. If the cloth remains white ( a drop of sweat makes a nice white
circle so wear a bandana ), it means the cloth is not wetted out, throw it
away and go get good cloth. Okay, on with the repair.
Cut your patch strips of fiberglass cloth on the bias (threads at 45 degrees
to cut), this lets the glass move and form around curves without puckering
at the edges. Lay out a sheet of Saran wrap, lay your glass on it and work
the resin into the fibers. Once the fiberglass is completely wetted out,
place another piece of plastic over it and squeegee the plastic, fiberglass,
plastic sandwich to work all the excess resin to the edges of the glass and
away from the cloth. All that's required is to wet out the glass, any more
resin than that is excess weight and does nothing for the strength of the
bond or the glass. Peel off the top layer of plastic, apply a light coat of
pure resin to the area to be patched and use the remaining layer of plastic
to control the glass while you put it on the patch area. Peel off the
remaining plastic sheet and squeegee the cloth working from the center to
the edges. Lay the peel ply over the repair area and smooth out. If you
don't use peel ply, the edges of the 'glass will curl and are a bear to
feather out nicely. Don't wet out the peel ply all the way to the edge, you
need to be able to grab it to peel it off after the resin has cured. Once
the peel ply is wetted out you can check your layup by rubbing the peel ply
with paper towels to pull more resin out of the layup. Use caution here as
you can create a resin starved layup if you rub too much. Remember the idea
is have only enough resin to wet out the 'glass and no more. Once the layup
and peel ply are all smoothed out, clean up and have a beer. Incidently,
white vinegar will remove uncured resin from tools like scissors but you
need to oil the tool after cleaning to prevent surface corrosion. My new W20
shears have a nice light brown patina because I forgot this, once.
It's the next day and the resin has cured. Grab the peel ply at a corner and
pull across the patch, not straight up from it, work all around the edges
toward the center. You should find that the 'glass is nicely filled with
resin, requiring very little filler and the edges are nicely tapered out to
the old surface of the part. Sand and fill as described yesterday.
On 4/18/06, DrHook wrote:
| Quote: |
Hey, I just noticed there are two Threads here with the same subject that
I posted. So thanks guys and sorry for not replying, Herb, John, Rick,
Larry, Bob & Steve.
So I will post back in both, I guess. Here is what I ended up doing and
replying back to Mike.
Its all good, Mike
I got the day off yesterday, and went to town, to OSH and found this glass
bondo stuff that has shredded peices of fiberglass in it, with a tube of
hardener. It works great, and it was only $8.95 for a can of it.
Per instructions I cut some peices of 4oz fiberglass cloth on the real bad
whole and rips that I didnt use the epoxy, on the inside of the nose
fairing, and filled the wholes & cracks on the outside.
It bonds really well, and drying time is quick. I just got some small
Voids to fill in, and its all about primer & paint.
The epoxy I used was 30 min epoxy, and I know that stuff is not going
anywhere.
I think I spent more time just pondering on weather or not to fix it or
re-place it, than it took me to get it done.
Bob E-mailed me with some suggestions on primer & paint thats I will try.
--------
Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D29081#29081
|
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
Time: 06:45:47 AM PST US
From: "Jack B. Hart"
Subject: Re: S&F 2006 Photos and Video Clips
At 10:48 AM 4/17/06 -0500, you wrote:
| Quote: |
When I click on the file, up comes Windows Media Player.
Might try Quicktime and/or Real Player.
john h
DO NOT ARCHIVE
|
John,
Tried my wife's computer as it is much newer than mine. It played with no
problems. I guess it is time to purchase a new computer.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________
Time: 07:01:12 AM PST US
From: "John Hauck"
Subject: MV 2005
Morning Gang:
For newbies and a refresher for those that were on the Kolb List last
year, here is a neat web site put together by George Alexander. It is
a collection of photos by a lot of us that attended MV III 2005:
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbflyer/
Many, many thanks, George!!!
john h
mkIII
________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
Time: 07:03:27 AM PST US
From: "pat ladd"
Subject: Re: Test Flying
Sorry Pat,
G-CDFA was the first Xtra with Jab 2200 and VG's to gain full UK type
approval, G-PLAD is the next one though.>>
Hi Mike
something else I got wrong. Cant remember it working that way when I built
the Challenger. I think the dealers pilot just came and gave it a check
flight, about 30 minutes and I did the rest.
Regarding the recurring loss of power when I flew the other night. This
morning I drained and changed the fuel, emptied carb bowls, cleaned filters
and then spent 30 minutes at cruise revs tied to a farm gate post. Engine
ran faultlessly.
Someone else on my strip in a Cub lost their engine on the approach
yesterday. Very experienced ex commercial pilot who put it down to icing.
Perhaps that was my problem
Pat
do not archive
--
________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________
Time: 07:24:24 AM PST US
From: "Dave & Eve Pelletier"
Subject: Re: Monument Valley
Lar,
Great, you'll be right across from me.
AzDave
Do Not Archive
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a58r(at)verizon.net
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| Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 9:47 am Post subject: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 04/18/06 |
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Is it necessary to include ALL 21 MESSAGES FROM DIGEST?
regards,
Bob N.
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
do not archive
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