budyerly(at)msn.com
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 Posted: Tue May 19, 2009 1:27 pm Post subject: Oil cooler lowering. |
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<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> Gary and those lowing the oil cooler to get better cooling.
I figure 8:30 AM at your hangar and about two or three hours max. I too have an afternoon commitment.
Keep in mind that once the job is done, the engine is not just burped, but the plugs pulled and turn the prop / engine until the oil cooler to oil pump line is primed and we register oil pressure. If we start the engine with an air bubble in this feed line, I guarantee that we'll have no oil pressure for about 10-15 seconds and probably do some wear and even some damage. It probably won't kill the engine, but the cam shaft, crank and valve train will show the wear and possibly shorten the time to overhaul.
So let's not get in a hurry.
To do the job I have:
23 and 24 mm wrenches cut short enough to properly loosen the oil fitting on the cooler.
5/16 socket and extra long extension to get down there from above.
Wrenches
Socket set
Plug socket,
Hose cutter
Dremel tool and cutoff wheel in case we can't quite get a full two inches.
Tin snips.
Seaming pliers.
Parts needed and on hand:
I have the straight fitting HEF 3-8 oil fitting,
AN 4-24 bolts and nuts with 2 inch steel tube spacers to move the cooler down.
I have a spare oil hose if we need to change it out.
Spare clamps for the hose.
A piece of sheet metal that will fill the void under the oil cooler to the cowl.
Small angles to close the hole left on each side of the oil cooler when lowered.
If you can pull the cowl off between rain showers and have plenty of shop towels and catch basins for the oil that will surely be dripped. If you have a little extra cowl seal that would be great, I only have a sliver left.
Bud
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