Matronics Email Lists Forum Index Matronics Email Lists
Web Forum Interface to the Matronics Email Lists
 
 Get Email Distribution Too!Get Email Distribution Too!    FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

DAR inspection comments - some tips

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Matronics Email Lists Forum Index -> RV10-List
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Tim(at)MyRV10.com
Guest





PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 7:43 pm    Post subject: DAR inspection comments - some tips Reply with quote

Now that I'm done with my DAR inspection, I would like to quick pass on
the things that the DAR commented on regarding the inspection and the
kit. It was his first RV inspection, so he learned a bit too. He's
a Cirrus factory DAR, and he flew down in an SR-22, which of course
has a similar N-Number. N109CD....while I'm N104CD. It seems that even
though they managed to buy up most of the "CD"'s that I snuck one out.
C and D are my kids initials, in case you're wondering. But anyway...

I only had one ding on the inspection. Those flex fuel lines that I
used....with my 45 degree fittings on the tank, which I do like how
they route that way, puts the fuel line running right past that
snap bushing hole in the bottom of the wing root fairings. This
causes the fuel line to lay next to the fuel vent tube. I didn't have
any separation, and he wanted to see some. I could either use zip-ties
to stand them off, or what I did was great he said, which was to just
squeeze in some red Hi-Temp RTV, which dries really quick. That
was it for the dings...fixed in 30 seconds.

Then he had some questions and suggestions.

1) Rudder Pedal Cables - He had noticed the rudder cable was very
slack. On the RV-10 of course, there is no tension on the rudder
cables unless you push them. You push one pedal and it pulls the
other pedal in due to the rudder movement. Apparently on a Cirrus,
they have a similar setup, but in order to ensure that you can't
pull the pedals backwards and jam,twist, or wrap a cable on something,
they take the 2 inside pedals and hook a spring to the firewall area.
That gives the pedals a positive return and keeps the cable taught.
After flying it, I see no reason we'd need this, but actually, it
would be a good though. He said ours is an "open loop" system, and
adding those would help to make it more "closed loop". Good catch
for him, but all I had to do was educate him as to how RV's are
constructed.

2) On pushrods such as the flap pushrod, and aileron pushrods, where
you thread in a rod-end bearing, he thought that it would have been
a good idea to drill "witness" holes. Just small holes in the rod
that are far enough back so you can verify the rod end isn't just
about to unthread and fall out. He didn't mind that I didn't have
them, but he suggested it...and in my opinion, that was a great
suggestion. You may want to incorporate that into yours.

3) Nyloc fasteners on control surfaces - Whenever you're fastening
something that rotates, like the elevator hinge bolts, and the
rudder/flaps/ailerons, they prefer to not see Nyloc fastener nuts.
In their opinion, just like your rudder cables are connected, you
should be using a castle nut and a drilled bolt, with a cotter
pin. I've heard this before, and it does make sense...even though
a Nyloc should be locked and stay locked, if it got sticky, when
you move the control back and forth, it could cause the nut to
work loose over time. He reminded me of that Cirrus crash in
Texas where after maintenance the aileron came off. Apparently
that was caused by something similar...or at least by the hinge
bolt falling out.

So that was about it. Everything else pretty much got great reviews
from the EAA Tech Counselor visits (3) that I had (Thanks Gary, by
the way), and the DAR. Gary did find one thing on his visit too...
If you look at the bellcrank tubes on the wings...those end bearings
that have the bolt stems coming out the ends...in my case and probably
yours, the nuts specified left no threads outside the nyloc nut. It
would probably never cause a problem, but it's best to just fix it
by using a thinner nut type in that area....which is what I did.

Hopefully these tips may help some of you get yours past your DAR
with the same ease.
Tim

--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE


- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -
 

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Back to top
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Matronics Email Lists Forum Index -> RV10-List All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group