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Aileron Squeezing and bracket re-locating

 
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dean.psiropoulos(at)veriz
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 8:11 pm    Post subject: Aileron Squeezing and bracket re-locating Reply with quote

Scott how would you know that the aileron brackets are not installed exactly
the same or in the proper position? I went through the "use the wing rib
shape cutout made of plywood to hold the aileron and flap in position"
exercise on my RV-6A and I submit that one simply cannot be precise using
such a method.

Do you have some method of precisely locating both the bracket to the
aileron and then the aileron to the wing? Do you also have a method of
doing this on a finished airplane? And how do you know how much performance
you lose by squeezing versus relocating the hinge hole? Is it significant
enough to be worth doing one over the other? I had not heard of the "move
the aileron hinge up or down" method of doing this until recently, has Van's
changed their mind about using the squeeze method and now recommends using
the "move the bracket method" or is there a way of deciding which method to
use?

Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Knee deep in Autocad and wire


__________________________ Original Messages ______________________________



Quote:
I have found that the aileron brackets have not been installed exactly the
same for what ever reason and one end of the aileron hangs lower than the
other.



Quote:
My fix for a slightly heavy right wing was an aileron trim tab. The "tab"
is a wooden wedge from the hardware store, intended to secure the head to a
sledge hammer.


Scott Bilinski
RV-8a
cell 858-395-5094

---------------------------------
Brings words and photos together (easily) with




________________________________ Message 13
____________________________________
Time: 10:31:41 AM PST US
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Rudder Trim



Hi Robin,
I have not seen any dimensions or specifications in postings on the
list. I have seen lots of RVs with wedges on the left side of their
rudders. They often are made of aluminum or wood. When I began testing
my -6A there was and obvious need for rudder trim. My solution was
trailing edge balsa made for model airplanes that I found at a hobby
shop. My procedure was to cut an arbitrary length of this material as a
starting point. I believe that I started with 10 inches. I taped it onto
the left trailing edge with the thickest part of the wedge aft using
duct tape. The 10 inches turned out to be too much. So, I cut it in half
and tried again. After several iterations, I ended up with about 6
inches length. I then finished a 6" length with the paint I used on the
plane and attached it with double stick foam tape. It has been in place
for about 60 hours and the ball is in the center at cruise speeds.
Hope this helps.

Richard Dudley
-6A 75 hours

Robin Marks wrote:

Quote:


I have a 6A with no Rudder Trim. I have seen foam style wedges that are
applied to the lifting surface to act as fixed trim surfaces. I do not
know what the material is, what the best angles are and how they are
affixed onto the surface. I assume this has been discussed at length in
the archives. Can anyone give me a lead to what they are called as I
have looked in the archives but I don't think I am searching the proper
terms and there are a lot of listings on trim?
Thanks,

Robin

RV-6A - Needs Right Rudder

Do Not Archive










________________________________ Message 14
____________________________________
Time: 10:43:46 AM PST US
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: aileron trimming by squeezing question



Stewart,

Here's a link to Van's instructions:

http://vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Heavy.pdf

Terry

Listers,
Need to fix a slightly heavy right wing on a new
rocket. Please correct me if I am wrong here.
Seems one should squeeze the trailing edge
of the light wing. Correct???
Thank you, Stewart Bergner





________________________________ Message 15
____________________________________
Time: 11:42:59 AM PST US
Subject: Re: Rudder Trim
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>


Robin Marks wrote:
Quote:
I have a 6A with no Rudder Trim. I have seen foam style wedges that are
applied to the lifting surface to act as fixed trim surfaces. I do not
know what the material is, what the best angles are and how they are
affixed onto the surface. I assume this has been discussed at length in
the archives. Can anyone give me a lead to what they are called as I
have looked in the archives but I don't think I am searching the proper
terms and there are a lot of listings on trim?Thanks, Robin RV-6A - Needs
Right

Rudder Do Not Archive
Robin

Here is the link and the description of wedge I use with great success.

http://www.epm-avcorp.com/trimtabinst.html

Here is a detail photograph of my installation:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=26694#post26694
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"


Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=10212#10212






________________________________ Message 16
____________________________________
Time: 11:49:51 AM PST US
Subject: RE: Rudder Trim
From: "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com>



Richard,
Thanks, that helps a lot. Did you place the trim high on the
rudder, low on the rudder? (seems like I have see them on the lower
section below the horz. stab) Did you place it perpendicular to the
horizon or running along the trailing edge?

Thanks,
Robin




________________________________ Message 17
____________________________________
Time: 12:47:02 PM PST US
From: Gerald Richardson <gerric(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Garmin GMA 346 audio panel


Does anyone have a copy of the Garmin GMA 347 audio panel
installation and operational manual.

Also what experiences have you had with it.

Any comments on the duplex telephone interface

Thanks

Gerald Richardson
Medicine Hat, Alberta
Canada
--
02/04/2006






________________________________ Message 18
____________________________________
Time: 12:47:03 PM PST US
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: Sherwin williams GBP-988 question.



Quote:
For what it's worth, i'll be switching to Marhyde when I finish the SW can
i'm using now. The people who have used both seem to agree that Marhyde
provides a tougher, more durable finish.

Having used both products I'd agree with this assessment. But I prefer SEM
to them both in terms of both the finish it leaves and its durability. To
those that apply the primer without first Scothbriting the surface, no
question it does NOT adhere as well. Dip your Scotchbrite pad in your
solvent of choice when scuffing and you degrease at the same time. Here's my

two cents worth...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.htm#Primer

Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com




________________________________ Message 19
____________________________________
Time: 01:19:23 PM PST US
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Garmin GMA 346 audio panel



See if this link works:

http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/Downloads/howtogetagarminmanual.htm
Quote:
Does anyone have a copy of the Garmin GMA 347 audio panel
installation and operational manual.





________________________________ Message 20
____________________________________
Time: 02:03:50 PM PST US
From: Bert Murillo <bertrv6(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Great News FAA Medicals



Hi:

I want to share the recent news, that medical examiners, will be
permitted to reissue
3rd. class medical certificates, for pilots with Cardiovascular conditions.
(list 5 conditions) you take all documents to the AME he or she will issue
the certificate.

The article is too long, but I encourage every one interested, to go to Aopa
on line,
\and read it..this will start in early 2006...

As I have said before, AOPA really works for General Aviation and they have
the clout to do it...I hope every rv. builder is a member...we help them,
and help
ourselves...

If any one has any questions, contact me off list ( I am just a member)

Bert

rv6a

Do not archive





________________________________ Message 21
____________________________________
Time: 02:25:57 PM PST US
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Re: DO NOT ARCHIVE (and quoting too!)



Jim Anglin wrote:

Quote:


A very simple solution

snip


Quote:
And PLEASE stop quoting the messages in your reply. I don't believe there
is

anyone here who will not know what you are talking about when reading your
reply
post. It is redundant, and stupid to believe that a message needs to be
included
in a reply as long as the subject line is correct.
Quote:

Sorry, I disagree. I see lots of emails with only a reply ..... and

sometimes the reply doesn't fit the subject. It is redundant. Stupid?
I don't think so. Maybe folks could trim comments past the last one???
I dunno.
Linn

Quote:

jim (do i need to add do not archive ?)










________________________________ Message 22
____________________________________
Time: 04:43:23 PM PST US
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Rudder Trim



Robin,

I can't look at it right now but, I believe that I put the wedge about
midway on the rudder. The trailing edge of the wedge is flush with the
trailing edge of the rudder. I think that the actual position along the
trailing edge of the rudder is not important. I placed it where it
looked ok to me.

Regards,

Richard

Robin Marks wrote:

Quote:


Richard,
Thanks, that helps a lot. Did you place the trim high on the
rudder, low on the rudder? (seems like I have see them on the lower
section below the horz. stab) Did you place it perpendicular to the
horizon or running along the trailing edge?

Thanks,
Robin










________________________________ Message 23
____________________________________
Time: 07:19:00 PM PST US
From: Rick McCraw <rmccraw(at)s4t.net>
Subject: Re: Auto signature



I am not a great fan of irrelevant messages, although I don't object
strongly. That said, I am not excited about adding Do Not Archive to an
autosignature. I, too, forget to add Do Not Archive, and I'm sure I'd
forget to remove it were it there automatically.

In short, I would rather have some chaff in the archives than to lose
valuable stuff because the author forgot to remove the DNA language.

While we're at it: There is good stuff in the archives that is
effectively lost because of misspellings in the subject line. It screws
up the search (I assume). We all misspell things occasionally, but is
there a reason not to correct the inevitable misspellings when they occur?

Rick McCraw
RV-7




________________________________ Message 24
____________________________________
Time: 11:42:08 PM PST US
From: "Trevor Mills" <millstrj(at)ozemail.com.au>
Subject: M T Props



Can anyone tell me anything about the electric 3 blade MT props as sold by
Eggenfellner
?

I would like to find the Model # and any comments would be great.

Thanks.

Trevor Mills 80605


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rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com
Guest





PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 9:01 pm    Post subject: Aileron Squeezing and bracket re-locating Reply with quote

Basically you move the hinge when squeezing the TE is not enough. For me I had a very heavy right wing. I did the squeeze thing and it helped but not enough. I then saw Dan's web site and notice what he did and it imediately made sense. I measured the aileron gap to top wing skin, with the aileron in a neutral position. The right wing, from the cockpit, was good. the left wing, the inner hinge was lower by about .050. I moved the hinge .030 and it helped greatly, need to change ity to the full .050.


Scott how would you know that the aileron brackets are not installed exactly
the same or in the proper position?
Good question. I am not sure.



I went through the "use the wing rib shape cutout made of plywood to hold the aileron and flap in position" exercise on my RV-6A and I submit that one simply cannot be precise using such a method.
You are correct.

Do you have some method of precisely locating both the bracket to the
aileron and then the aileron to the wing?
I finished building 2 years ago and dont remember the details exactly. There was no rocket sicence involved when I did it.....I think I just put them in place thinking it would be right.......if had to do it over again I would just be more careful.


Do you also have a method of doing this on a finished airplane?
On a finished airplane just like Dan's web site shows.


And how do you know how much performance you lose by squeezing versus relocating the hinge hole?
I know of no performance loss or gain.

Is it significant enough to be worth doing one over the other? I had not heard of the "move the aileron hinge up or down" method of doing this until recently, has Van's changed their mind about using the squeeze method and now recommends using the "move the bracket method" or is there a way of deciding which method to use?
The only time you move the bracket is when the squeeze method wont work. Van's for legal reason will never approve of people doing this.
Scott

---------------------------------
Brings words and photos together (easily) with


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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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