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Cabin door opening

 
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coop85(at)bellsouth.net
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 4:49 pm    Post subject: Cabin door opening Reply with quote

I am installing the doors and discovered the scribe line wasn't too
accurate. I have a question and a request.

First, is everyone maintaining the 1/16th to 1/8th" gap all the way around
the opening or is the gap larger. It seems like a much larger gap based on
some pictures I took at Sun-n-Fun but it's hard to tell for sure.

My request is, could someone post a picture of the inside of the door while
closed to see the gap?

Thanks,
Marcus


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bgill1(at)charter.net
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 3:20 pm    Post subject: Cabin door opening Reply with quote

Hi Marcus:

I have been watching your question and haven't seen any response. I have
just finished the "rough" door fitting and my gap is very irregular. I
spent two weekends working on them and still don't feel satisfied. I may
just mask off the door face, clamp down then fill the gap with epoxy
filler to make more uniform. I'll make that decision when the latch is
completed where I can lock down as it will be in final. I'll also have
to build up some on the outside to make it all work out flush. There are
some areas around the rear window that came in thin of material. I will
have to build up some more locally before gluing the windows.

Sounds like we are pretty close in the build cycle. I have a bit more to
do then jump on the windows. More fun..... If I can find the time, I
would like to drop down and compare notes. You are always welcome to
venture up to Douglas as well.
Do not archive

Byron
#40253 Finishing kit - I hate fiberglass Smile

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coop85(at)bellsouth.net
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 5:34 pm    Post subject: Cabin door opening Reply with quote

Byron,
We do seem to be running neck and neck on the project. I would
definitely still like to visit you and your project as well. I have a
friend who has spent a lot of time up there with the B-25 projects and I
keep meaning to check that out as well.

It sounds like we have similar problems and solutions. I was hoping to see
some better pictures of a closed door to get a good idea of what is
required. I've scoured the websites to no avail other than some pictures of
the 220HP prototype and it appears they cut the door frame back pretty far
but I just can't be sure. As for the window, the plans mention using
washers spaced about every 4" to raise the window if required. However, it
seems like that method would leave a gap around most of the window on the
inside that would need to be filled somehow.

Marcus

Do not archive

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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 5:22 am    Post subject: Cabin door opening Reply with quote

Byron,

You should post a pic of your door and then one of the gutter
from the outside. With careful filing, you shouldn't have too
much roughness in that gap. There's not much left of the
outward lip of the channel when you get the door fit. Some
of the gap will depend on if you fabric cover your door, or
if you smooth and paint it plain. I can say though that if
you're careful, that gap can be minimal. I made sure mine was
able to have a piece of paper pulled through it easily, but
that's about the extent of much of the gap....maybe a bunch
more on the bottom by accident. I don't know if I'd bother
filling the gap with epoxy until you're ready to paint.
You might find when you're at the painting stage that you need
to adjust even more. Also, if you plan to fabric cover the
door, put some scraps around the lip and check the fit.
I ended up re-sanding the lip after I put fabric on because
I needed MORE gap. What may look huge now may be smaller
when you get further along.

Good luck,
Tim
Byron Gillespie wrote:
[quote]

Hi Marcus:

I have been watching your question and haven't seen any response. I have
just finished the "rough" door fitting and my gap is very irregular. I
spent two weekends working on them and still don't feel satisfied. I may
just mask off the door face, clamp down then fill the gap with epoxy
filler to make more uniform. I'll make that decision when the latch is
completed where I can lock down as it will be in final. I'll also have
to build up some on the outside to make it all work out flush. There are
some areas around the rear window that came in thin of material. I will
have to build up some more locally before gluing the windows.

Sounds like we are pretty close in the build cycle. I have a bit more to
do then jump on the windows. More fun..... If I can find the time, I
would like to drop down and compare notes. You are always welcome to
venture up to Douglas as well.
Do not archive

Byron
#40253 Finishing kit - I hate fiberglass Smile

--


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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 5:22 am    Post subject: Cabin door opening Reply with quote

The windows: Marcus, that's an easy one. The washers will actually
help a lot with the windows because with that gap there the window
glue itself will be the filler. I would almost guarantee that
you'll need washers all the way around. Just use a dab of superglue
to stick them in place and then apply the glue and put the window
in. On my site I gave some tips about the windows...learned the
hard way. Just don't leave any of that glue anywhere you don't
have to....it's tough to get off.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170

Marcus Cooper wrote:
[quote]

Byron,
We do seem to be running neck and neck on the project. I would
definitely still like to visit you and your project as well. I have a
friend who has spent a lot of time up there with the B-25 projects and I
keep meaning to check that out as well.

It sounds like we have similar problems and solutions. I was hoping to see
some better pictures of a closed door to get a good idea of what is
required. I've scoured the websites to no avail other than some pictures of
the 220HP prototype and it appears they cut the door frame back pretty far
but I just can't be sure. As for the window, the plans mention using
washers spaced about every 4" to raise the window if required. However, it
seems like that method would leave a gap around most of the window on the
inside that would need to be filled somehow.

Marcus

Do not archive

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Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 5:58 am    Post subject: Cabin door opening Reply with quote

That is what I did. Wait till you get the latch mounted and
drilled to frame, then I put tape on the inside edge of the door all
around the outside, then I put filler on the door lip and closed the
door until it was dry. Sand off the excess and you have a gap that is
perfect all the way around. I even built out the bottom edge to form a
nice 1/2" wide area that fit to the door. I took me a week and filling
and sanding, but it looks really good now.

Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
Interior painted and installing things for good.
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coop85(at)bellsouth.net
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 2:39 pm    Post subject: Cabin door opening Reply with quote

Tim,
Thanks for both of your responses on this, they were very helpful, as
your website has been as well. I'm hoping the fit will be much better once
the door is trimmed more, maybe I'll just end up with some THICK fabric on
the door and justify it as soundproofing Wink

Marcus
40286

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bgill1(at)charter.net
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 5:31 pm    Post subject: Cabin door opening Reply with quote

Good thought Tim:

I had not considered the covering on the inside of the door. The sanding
is all done and the door fitted but I have not done any "clean up" to
the face or door itself. There appears to be anywhere from flush to 1/8"
gap between the door and frame - I really didn't do a good job with that
part.

I don't plan to do anything till I get the doors latched down. I plan to
get with Abby at Flightline to get the liner ordered and get a sample
for thickness checks - I'll definitely have to take that into account.

Thanks for the heads up!.

Byron #40253 Finishing

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