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Electric Elevator Trim connector
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Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCPower
Guest

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 9:16 am Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

I'm about to install my Electric Elevator Trim servo in the new RV-7A.

I'm interested in knowing what others have done for electrical 

connectors for the servo, and where they have located that

connector (i.e., in the tail area or the fuselage). 

  So far, most everything I've seen will not allow the elevator to be

removed as the connector will not fit through the hole in the elevator

or the rear spare of the horizontal stab....This includes DB-9

connectors......



Fred Stucklen

RV-7A  N924RV

frank.hinde(at)hp.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 9:47 am Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

I used a terminal strip screwd down just behind the empenage front spar.

I don't know for sure but I think the little ring terminals will go thru

the hole.



Frank



RV 7a

Paperwork submitted, final rigging of controls

  I'm about to install my Electric Elevator Trim servo in the new RV-7A.

I'm interested in knowing what others have done for electrical

connectors for the servo, and where they have located that connector

(i.e., in the tail area or the fuselage). 

  So far, most everything I've seen will not allow the elevator to be

removed as the connector will not fit through the hole in the elevator

or the rear spare of the horizontal stab....This includes DB-9

connectors......



Fred Stucklen

RV-7A  N924RV

chaztuna(at)adelphia.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 9:53 am Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

At 01:15 PM 8/10/2006, you wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		  --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W      UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCPower.com>



 

   I'm about to install my Electric Elevator Trim servo in the new RV-7A.

 I'm interested in knowing what others have done for electrical 

 connectors for the servo, and where they have located that

 connector (i.e., in the tail area or the fuselage). 

   So far, most everything I've seen will not allow the elevator to be

 removed as the connector will not fit through the hole in the elevator

 or the rear spare of the horizontal stab....This includes DB-9

 connectors......



 Fred Stucklen

 RV-7A  N924RV 	


 Fred,

  The best solution to allow elevator removal is to use Bob Nuckoll's suggested method. Use D Sub male and female terminals without the S Sub block. Crimp or solder the male and female terminals to the 5 wires. Slide heat shrink over the wires then connect the terminals. Use heat to shrink the heat shrink tubing over the connected joint. This will hold the connection tight and keep it dry. 

  To remove, simply slice the heat shrink with a razor blade and disconnect the D Sub pins. It will allow the connector pins to be withdrawn through the rather small hole in the elevator spar. Stagger the connectors to ease removal. Bob has or had a photo "how to" page on his site. I looked quickly, but couldn't locate it.

 Charlie Kuss

chaztuna(at)adelphia.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 10:08 am Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

At 01:51 PM 8/10/2006, you wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		  At 01:15 PM 8/10/2006, you wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		  --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W      UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCPower.com>



 

   I'm about to install my Electric Elevator Trim servo in the new RV-7A.

 I'm interested in knowing what others have done for electrical 

 connectors for the servo, and where they have located that

 connector (i.e., in the tail area or the fuselage). 

   So far, most everything I've seen will not allow the elevator to be

 removed as the connector will not fit through the hole in the elevator

 or the rear spare of the horizontal stab....This includes DB-9

 connectors......



 Fred Stucklen

 RV-7A  N924RV 	


 Fred,

  The best solution to allow elevator removal is to use Bob Nuckoll's suggested method. Use D Sub male and female terminals without the S Sub block. Crimp or solder the male and female terminals to the 5 wires. Slide heat shrink over the wires then connect the terminals. Use heat to shrink the heat shrink tubing over the connected joint. This will hold the connection tight and keep it dry. 

  To remove, simply slice the heat shrink with a razor blade and disconnect the D Sub pins. It will allow the connector pins to be withdrawn through the rather small hole in the elevator spar. Stagger the connectors to ease removal. Bob has or had a photo "how to" page on his site. I looked quickly, but couldn't locate it.

 Charlie Kuss 	


 Sorry Fred,

  I meant to type D Sub, not S Sub

 Charlie

recapen(at)earthlink.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 10:43 am Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

My elevator trim motor is attached to the rear deck a la Gretz.....I have a molex on the rearmost bulkhead (609 IIRC).

  

 Photos on direct request.......



 [quote]--

Dale Ensing

Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 571
Location: Aero Plantation Weddington NC

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 10:43 am Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

Fred,

I used a connector from the radio control world. Check your local hobby shop

or catalogue.

Dale Ensing



---

_________________
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
Aero Plantation
Weddington NC

Mark Phillips in TN

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 431
Location: Columbia, TN

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 11:24 am Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

Hi Fred-

  

 I ran across some kits a few years back that had assorted Molex pin & socket connectors and included the crimping tool and pin removal tool.  I got one each in the .062 and .093 sizes and they have been extremely useful for stuff like the trim servo connection where you can just0crimp pins on the end of the servo and cable wires, and insert them into the connector bodies and plug together.  When you need to pull the cables0back through a hole, such as when removing your elevator, you simply unplug0the connector and remove the pins from the connector body with the tool that comes in the kit- it's a good idea to wrap some tape around the pin bundle0to protect them as you pull the cable out.

  

 Called "Cable Connector Designer Kits", Digikey has 'em on page 130 & 131 of their current catalog:

 http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T062/0130.pdf  for the .062 pins ($71.24)

 http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T062/0131.pdf  for the .092 pins ($61.16)

  

 here's Bob's how-to on Molex/AMP connectors:0 http://aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html

  



 You can also use d-subs and remove the pins- Bob had a how-to on his website but looks like it's gone- basically just a male & female d-sub glued together with shoe-goo and covered in shrinkwrap IIRC- 

  

 From The PossumWorks in TN

 Mark

  http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/[url=http://aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/mat][/url]

_________________
From The PossumWorks...

retasker(at)optonline.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 12:23 pm Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

Or go to www.mouser.com and get exactly the same things for less:

 

 http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=WM-72  (at) $48.18

 http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=WM-50  (at) $45.38

 

 Dick Tasker

 

 Fiveonepw(at)aol.com (Fiveonepw(at)aol.com) wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		           Hi Fred-

    

   I ran across some kits a few years back that had assorted Molex pin & socket connectors and included the crimping tool and pin removal tool.  I got one each in the .062 and .093 sizes and they have been extremely useful for stuff like the trim servo connection where you can just crimp pins on the end of the servo and cable wires, and insert them into the connector bodies and plug together.  When you need to pull the cables back through a hole, such as when removing your elevator, you simply unplug the connector and remove the pins from the connector body with the tool that comes in the kit- it's a good idea to wrap some tape around the pin bundle to protect them as you pull the cable out.

    

   Called "Cable Connector Designer Kits", Digikey has 'em on page 130 & 131 of their current catalog:

   http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T062/0130.pdf  for the .062 pins ($71.24)

   http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T062/0131.pdf  for the .092 pins ($61.16)

    

   here's Bob's how-to on Molex/AMP connectors:   http://aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html

    

   

   You can also use d-subs and remove the pins- Bob had a how-to on his website but looks like it's gone- basically just a male & female d-sub glued together with shoe-goo and covered in shrinkwrap IIRC- 

    

   From The PossumWorks in TN

   Mark

      http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/

rdunhamtn(at)hotmail.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:15 pm Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

The URL is



http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Solder_Lap_Splicing/Solder_Lap_Splices.html



do not archive



 	  Quote: 	
		  From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>

Reply-To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com

To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: Electric Elevator Trim connector

Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2006 14:05:53 -0400



At 01:51 PM 8/10/2006, you wrote:

>At 01:15 PM 8/10/2006, you wrote:

>>

>>UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCPower.com>

>>

>>

>>   I'm about to install my Electric Elevator Trim servo in the new RV-7A.

>>I'm interested in knowing what others have done for electrical

>>connectors for the servo, and where they have located that

>>connector (i.e., in the tail area or the fuselage).

>>   So far, most everything I've seen will not allow the elevator to be

>>removed as the connector will not fit through the hole in the elevator

>>or the rear spare of the horizontal stab....This includes DB-9

>>connectors......

>>

>>Fred Stucklen

>>RV-7A  N924RV

>

>Fred,

>  The best solution to allow elevator removal is to use Bob Nuckoll's 

>suggested method. Use D Sub male and female terminals without the S Sub 

>block. Crimp or solder the male and female terminals to the 5 wires. Slide 

>heat shrink over the wires then connect the terminals. Use heat to shrink 

>the heat shrink tubing over the connected joint. This will hold the 

>connection tight and keep it dry.

>  To remove, simply slice the heat shrink with a razor blade and 

>disconnect the D Sub pins. It will allow the connector pins to be 

>withdrawn through the rather small hole in the elevator spar. Stagger the 

>connectors to ease removal. Bob has or had a photo "how to" page on his 

>site. I looked quickly, but couldn't locate it.

>Charlie Kuss



Sorry Fred,

  I meant to type D Sub, not S Sub

Charlie

Mark Phillips in TN

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 431
Location: Columbia, TN

Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 3:12 pm Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

Unbelieveable- I spent over an hour digging through the catalogs &0website and never ran across them on Mouser- you da man- and I LOVE a deal ! ! !         

  

 Mark

 do not archive

_________________
From The PossumWorks...

aerobubba(at)earthlink.ne
Guest

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 3:25 am Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

Hi Fred- 

 

 	  Quote: 	
		  I'm interested in knowing what others have done for electrical 

connectors for the servo, and where they have located that

connector (i.e., in the tail area or the fuselage). 

 
	


I found a 7 pin annular connector, perhaps at RS, that works well.  By

leaving the outer most shell off, it has a small enough diameter to fit

through the hole.  Just make sure that if you use a snap bushing in the

butt rib hole it is oriented correctly for removal of the ass'y.  I heat

shrink the connector into one lump which I then ty wrap to the aft deck

between the HS spars. 

Hope this helps-



glen matejcek

aerobubba(at)earthlink.net

nuckollsr(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 5:08 am Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

 	  Quote: 	
		  >>>

>>>   I'm about to install my Electric Elevator Trim servo in the new RV-7A.

>>>I'm interested in knowing what others have done for electrical

>>>connectors for the servo, and where they have located that

>>>connector (i.e., in the tail area or the fuselage).

>>>   So far, most everything I've seen will not allow the elevator to be

>>>removed as the connector will not fit through the hole in the elevator

>>>or the rear spare of the horizontal stab....This includes DB-9

>>>connectors......

>>>

>>>Fred Stucklen

>>>RV-7A  N924RV

>>

>>Fred,

>>  The best solution to allow elevator removal is to use Bob Nuckoll's 

>> suggested method. Use D Sub male and female terminals without the S Sub 

>> block. Crimp or solder the male and female terminals to the 5 wires. 

>> Slide heat shrink over the wires then connect the terminals. Use heat 

>> to shrink the heat shrink tubing over the connected joint. This will 

>> hold the connection tight and keep it dry.

>>  To remove, simply slice the heat shrink with a razor blade and 

>> disconnect the D Sub pins. It will allow the connector pins to be 

>> withdrawn through the rather small hole in the elevator spar. Stagger 

>> the connectors to ease removal. Bob has or had a photo "how to" page on 

>> his site. I looked quickly, but couldn't locate it.


	


       Funny thing about that Charlie, I couldn't either. Programming

       is such a fussy science. I had one quote sign missing in the

       articles index code and it hosed two lines of the index making

       a couple of items disappear. The comic book you're remembering

       is at:



http://aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html



       and the code has been repaired. Thanks for bringing it up!

       Also see last photo at:



http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Solder_Lap_Splicing/Solder_Lap_Splices.html



or



http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Solder_Lap_Splicing/e.jpg

      Keep in mind that the wires provide on the Ray-Allen

      servos is (ugh!) 26AWG. The simple female-pin/male-pin splice

      illustrated is still pretty fragile in tension on the small-wire

      side of the simple shrink-over-D-sub-pin splice. I'd be

      a bit more comfortable with the former solution where the

      tiny wires are supported by the final doping of uckum-yucky.



      Bob . . .

Bret Smith

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 178
Location: Mineral Bluff, GA

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 5:40 am Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

The REAL problem I see is that the trim servo comes from Ray Allen with0 26AWG wires and most connectors, especially Molex, can only accomodate as small0 as 24AWG.  I plan on following Bob's recommendation and using a 9-pin D-Sub0 connector.

  

 Bret

 [quote]   ---

_________________
Bret Smith
RV-9A (Emp)

ktlkrn(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 6:12 am Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

Hey Fred,

  

 I used a Dean's 5 pin connector from the hobby0 shop. This is a thin connector with VERY tight fitting gold pins. It will fit0 through the oval shaped hole in the elevator. The hole in the spar was enlarge0 to accommodate.

  

 A rubber grommet was used on the oval hole and0 works great.  I split a grommet for the hole in the spar. As an added0 measure of protection I protected the wires with heat shrink tubing where the0 wires pass through the elevator and spar.

  

 Very neat, simple and serviceable unit. Sorry don't0 have any pictures of this.

  

 Darwin N. Barrie

 Chandler AZ

 RV7 N717EE

 130+ hours

chaztuna(at)adelphia.net
Guest

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 7:02 am Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

Darwin,

  I suggest you contact Vans regarding enlarging the hole in the left elevator main spar. I did the same thing, but ended up installing a doubler plate to shrink the hole back to the original size. When I spoke to Vans, they said that I should not open that hole, as it will weaken the spar. The elevator has a fair amount of load placed on it. Hence my choice of using D Sub pins and heat shrink per the last photo below.



  http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Solder_Lap_Splicing/Solder_Lap_Splices.html 



 Be sure to stagger the splice connectors, to avoid creating a knot of wire.



 Charlie Kuss



 



  	  Quote: 	
		  Hey Fred,

  

 I used a Dean's 5 pin connector from the hobby shop. This is a thin connector with VERY tight fitting gold pins. It will fit through the oval shaped hole in the elevator. The hole in the spar was enlarge to accommodate.

  

 A rubber grommet was used on the oval hole and works great.  I split a grommet for the hole in the spar. As an added measure of protection I protected the wires with heat shrink tubing where the wires pass through the elevator and spar.

  

 Very neat, simple and serviceable unit. Sorry don't have any pictures of this.

  

 Darwin N. Barrie

 Chandler AZ

 RV7 N717EE

 130+ hours

retasker(at)optonline.net
Guest

Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 12:52 pm Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

Actually if you want to use 26 AWG they do sell pins for these 

connectors that work with 24-30 AWG.



Mouser part number 538-02-06-1132 for the female pins and 538-02-06-2132 

for the male pins.



I have used some of these and they do work down to 26 AWG without any 

trouble (except for the fact that the wire is pretty small).  Use good 

external strain relief.



Dick Tasker



Bret Smith wrote:



[quote] The REAL problem I see is that the trim servo comes from Ray Allen 

 with 26AWG wires and most connectors, especially Molex, can only 

 accomodate as small as 24AWG.  I plan on following Bob's 

 recommendation and using a 9-pin D-Sub connector.

  

 Bret



     ---

ktlkrn(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 12:58 am Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

Hi Charlie,

  

 The enlargement of the hole was very minor to get  the Deans connector through. I did check with Vans and they said it was fine I  think their concern is running some type of large connector through that  requires a significant hole.

  

 Darwin N. Barrie

willslau(at)alumni.rice.e
Guest

Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 7:37 am Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

Hi  Darwin,

 I just  checked the Dean's website and did not find a listing for a five wire  connector. Can you give me a source for the one you used, or did you  use a three and a two or ? Thanks.

  

 William Slaughter

 RV-8QB  Wings

 [quote]   

   --

nuckollsr(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 12:23 pm Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

At 10:34 AM 8/13/2006 -0500, you wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  

The enlargement of the hole was very minor to get the Deans connector 

through. I did check with Vans and they said it was fine I think their 

concern is running some type of large connector through that requires a 

significant hole.



Darwin N. Barrie


	


  Darwin . . . or anyone else. Exactly what is the size of the

  hole under discussion?

        Bob . . .

      ---------------------------------------------------------

      < What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >

      < the authority which determines whether there can be   >

      < debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of   >

      < scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests     >

      < with experiment.                                      >

      <                            --Lawrence M. Krauss       >

      ---------------------------------------------------------

Bret Smith

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 178
Location: Mineral Bluff, GA

Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 6:16 pm Post subject: Electric Elevator Trim connector

Bob, here is a pic of the hole in the rear horizontal stabilizer spar

(RV-9).  I have mine stored but you can see the hole is approx. 5/8 to 3/4".



 

Bret Smith

RV-9A (91314)

Mineral Bluff, GA

www.FlightInnovations.com



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_________________
Bret Smith
RV-9A (Emp)

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