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		graham(at)gflight.f9.co.u Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 3:03 am    Post subject: Europa-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/14/06 | 
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				ime: 01:37:53 PM PST US
 From: "William Daniell" <wdaniell(at)etb.net.co>
 Subject: Wing skin separation HELP
 
  
 I have made an error in construction in the interior of the wings and very
 cleverly close then (with the error inside).
 Will
 Will
 You have some work to do   . This is what I would do, but always get a second opinion. (I am old and daft    according to some (my wife among em)
 You need to heat the Redux to around 120 deg C to soften the Redux and ideally it needs to be done quickly so that not too much heat gets to the rest of the structure. It won't melt, it just goes soft. You need a hot knife to slip between the joint. Start at the trailing edge, look for any area where the bond isn't prefect and atart there. Find a good quality table knife, one of the old fashioned thin springy ones that are perfect as spatulas, used to be made here in Sheffield England. (I hate the modern clumsy stiff ones >  )You might find a Weller solder gun with a knife blade, failing that heat the knife then slip it in and cut, reheat and do it again. Once you have a legnth apart slip a wooden wedge in to spring the skins apart but gently!!!
 When you have the skin off, use a hot air gun on the reinforcement and use similar methods. You might be lucky and find you can pull the cloth off with pliers and hot air. Failing that a sharp wood chisel lightly tapped between, again with hot air but remember, each time you heat (post cure!) the new laminate gets stronger.
 best of luck
 Graham
 
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		ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserv Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 4:01 am    Post subject: Europa-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/14/06 | 
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				If:
 <<I did the reinforcements 0/90 instead of 45deg. >>
 then (assuming 2 plies of reinforcement had been applied) one additional ply 
 at 45 deg should provide equivalent strength to 2 at 45 deg. This would 
 avoid the need to risk further damage in removing the erroneous plies.
 Subject to approval of your respective design/regulatory authority!
 
 Duncan McF
 ---
 
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		wdaniell(at)etb.net.co Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 4:27 am    Post subject: Europa-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/14/06 | 
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				Thanks to everyone...
 
 I will let you all know how I get on.
 
 Andy told me that I can put the 45 reinforcements on top of the 0/90
 reinforcements so that is not a problem.
 
 AS for separating the skins, I had a go yesterday and I can tell you the
 peel strength is quite impressive...
 
 Watch this space.
 
 Will
 
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		wdaniell(at)etb.net.co Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 8:50 am    Post subject: Europa-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/14/06 | 
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				Steve and all
 
 Thanks for all these suggestions.
 
 So far not so good I'm afraid - I tried a model aircraft iron, a soldering
 iron with a filed down tip, a hot knife, and a heat gun.  All this on local
 areas.
 
 All I have so far is damaged top skin and a distinct nervousness about
 damage to the underneath structure.
 
 Prior to having a go at the skin I took the spar end guide/steel cup thing
 off in a heartbeat - just applied the heat gun to it and off it came.
 However the wing skin is a different story mainly I think because the fiber
 glass does not conduct heat.  The other interesting thing is that it appears
 that the araldite does not melt - it sort of burns on the surface.  This
 means that the soldering iron did not go through it - which surprised me.
 
 I have to take a break now - business trip and will return to the battle
 with renewed vigour next week end when I will write the next weeks thrilling
 instalment.
 
 Yous, a bit depressed in Bogota
 
 Will
 
 Ps looking on the bright side lucky I realized and secondly I will have a
 perfect bond when I glue the skins on again!
 
 --
 
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		aopd37(at)dsl.pipex.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 9:30 am    Post subject: Europa-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/14/06 | 
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				 	  | Quote: | 	 		  >So far not so good I'm afraid - I tried a model aircraft iron, a soldering
  iron with a filed down tip, a hot knife, and a heat gun.  All this on 
  local
  areas.<<
 
 | 	  
 William,
 
 If I can add my twopenneth.
 
 I suggest, IMHO, that you might be localising the heat too much with the 
 above tools.
 
 Try an experiment with some scrap pieces glued with Redux first.
 
 Then to get them apart heat the area by moving the heat gun from side to 
 side warming the area, not localised heathing. Use a thin bladed flat knife, 
 long enough to go all the way through the joint and tough enough not to 
 snap, to get between the joint and create a gap.
 
 Work along the joint with the heat gun sweeping from side to side all the 
 time heating an area not greating hot spots.
 
 Don't get the heat gun too close, else it burns, not too far or it won't 
 heat enough and don't try to do it too quickly.
 
 Once you've got confidence from the experiment with the scrap then try your 
 wing.
 
 All IMHO of course, but I have managed similar.
 
 Alan
 #0303
 
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		topglock(at)cox.net Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 6:02 pm    Post subject: Europa-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/14/06 | 
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				Would it be possible to purchase a set of closeouts, without having to 
 buy the whole wing.  Seems this would make things a whole lot easier, 
 not having to worry about damaging the skin...
 
 Jeff - N55XS
 133 hours...
 
 William Daniell wrote:
 
 [quote] 
  
  Steve and all
  
  Thanks for all these suggestions.
  
  So far not so good I'm afraid - I tried a model aircraft iron, a soldering
  iron with a filed down tip, a hot knife, and a heat gun.  All this on local
  areas.
  
  All I have so far is damaged top skin and a distinct nervousness about
  damage to the underneath structure.
  
  Prior to having a go at the skin I took the spar end guide/steel cup thing
  off in a heartbeat - just applied the heat gun to it and off it came.
  However the wing skin is a different story mainly I think because the fiber
  glass does not conduct heat.  The other interesting thing is that it appears
  that the araldite does not melt - it sort of burns on the surface.  This
  means that the soldering iron did not go through it - which surprised me.
  
  I have to take a break now - business trip and will return to the battle
  with renewed vigour next week end when I will write the next weeks thrilling
  instalment.
  
  Yous, a bit depressed in Bogota
  
  Will
  
  Ps looking on the bright side lucky I realized and secondly I will have a
  perfect bond when I glue the skins on again!
  
  --
 
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