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Mod 73
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rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.n
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 9:42 am    Post subject: Mod 73 Reply with quote

As far as getting bushings stuck, I modified our accelerated tailplane kit which had the inner bushings debonding pretty much right after we received them in 2003.Mutilated the stabs from bottom and installed a very very minor tapered CF tube. It was from a rowing skull (garbage picked) and I selected the section that was just about the proper size for outboard bushing, but lead in on the inner bushing was slight over. This way you get the support needed with essential no more friction. When laying up, always first ply of BID is with Redux/peelply. Redux sticks much more better to Stainless or any sort of metal as a matter of fact, so I always use Redux for first ply over metal, peelply then complete layup with Aeropoxy laminating resin.Inner and outer bushings were scored and scuffed very well, they ain't goin anywhere with the glass layup on them and CF tube.Using shoulder screws to hold in place instead of pip pins. They have seals so no need to have drain. Also a detent.I still elongated the torque tube (also a spar!) in event any slop ever developed no rotational force would be applied to outer bushings.This was long before mod 73:http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album220&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php Since I was at it fit of our pins was very poor. Factory tried sending oversized pins, then 10MM reamer and pins with still a poor fit. I reamed holes, then sized them by sending through progressive larger pins (.0001 increments), then custom machined and hand lapped dogbone shaped pins (dogbone so when sending interferance fit pins through they don't oversize first hole, dogbone is only a few thousands undersized) and used corrosion proofing paint as a lubricant on cold pins when installing. Also used green loctite but fit was very good on pins:http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album224&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.phpAnd since I was working on aft section of aeroplane and thinking, removed about 15% stress on drive pins. Added mass balance weights to lead edge of stabilators whioch allowed removal of mass balance weights off mass balance arm. If I am going to need aft weight anyway with 914 and airmaster XS, might as well make weight do a worthwhile task.Another note:On the new style mass balance arm, there is a thin locknut on the beefier lower fitting. When you tighten this locknut it is essentially taking all the load! I didn't like that very much, although I have never heard of any problems, I found an AN castelated nut that had 3 times or more as many threads as the thin one supplied, and fitted it instead while assembling with Locktite. Think about it, for most part weight is putting a compression load on the threads of the lower fitting (positive Gs anyway) and the threads are under compression. Now you tighten this thin stop nut and you are now pulling on threads that are now under tension. Guess what the only thing keeping threads under tension is? The few threads of the thin nut. These few threads are taking all the load. I have three times as many threads with castelated nu compared to supplied thin nutt.Ron Parigoris [quote][b]

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grahamsingleton(at)btinte
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 4:43 pm    Post subject: Mod 73 Reply with quote

Karl Heindl wrote:
Quote:

Pete and Bud,

I don't agree with the friction theory. My tailplanes slide on and off
with ease. If anything, it is easier now, as there is no lignup
problem with the two separate tubes. The torque tube is always lightly
greased for that reason, but also to keep corrosion of the torque tube
at bay.e
I don't think that weight is an issue here. I use an alu tube and the
difference between that and the shorter steel tube is really minimal.
Actually, an increase in tail weight is beneficial for many Europas,
when you consider all the add-ons up front, like cs propeller,
instrumentation, autopilot, cabin heat, you name it, compared to the
original 80hp mono, on which the cg calculations were based.

Karl
Karl

the friction is usually caused by either ovality of one (or both) of the
tubes, or by drilling swarf jamming between the tubes.
Graham


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kheindl(at)msn.com
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 6:10 pm    Post subject: Mod 73 Reply with quote

 
Graham C
 
I fully understand C but one would check before installation that the tubes slide easily over the torque tube.
I did have the swarf problem on one side early in the build because I did not use a brand new drill bit. It was quite a job to fix that with a special homemade abrasive tool.
I think there must be a simple way for new builders to drill the pip pin holes BEFORE installing a single tube.
 
Karl


 
Quote:
Date: Fri C 16 Oct 2009 01:39:27 +0100
From: grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Mod 73

--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>

Karl Heindl wrote:
>
> Pete and Bud C
>
> I don't agree with the friction theory. My tailplanes slide on and off
> with ease. If anything C it is easier now C as there is no lignup
> problem with the two separate tubes. The torque tube is always lightly
> greased for that reason C but also to keep corrosion of the torque tube
> at bay.e
> I don't think that weight is an issue here. I use an alu tube and the
> difference between that and the shorter steel tube is really minimal.
> Actually C an increase in tail weight is beneficial for many Europas C
> when you consider all the add-ons up front C like cs propeller C
> instrumentation C autopilot C cabin heat C you name it C compared to the
> original 80hp mono C on which the cg calculations were based.
>
> Karl
Karl
the friction is usually caused by either ovality of one (or both) of the
tubes C or by drilling swarf j Archive Search & Download C 7-Day Browse C Chat C FAQ C
&gt===

[quote]


Quote:
[b]


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grahamsingleton(at)btinte
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 1:24 am    Post subject: Mod 73 Reply with quote

Karl Heindl wrote:
Quote:


Graham,

I fully understand, but one would check before installation that the
tubes slide easily over the torque tube.
I did have the swarf problem on one side early in the build because I
did not use a brand new drill bit. It was quite a job to fix that with
a special homemade abrasive tool.
I think there must be a simple way for new builders to drill the pip
pin holes BEFORE installing a single tube.

Karl

Karl

if you have any good ideas I'm sure the factory would like to know, they
are working to smooth out the wrinkles in the old design. OTH maybe they
already have an idea about this, David?
Graham


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