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Alternator Problem - Not in plane

 
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FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 3:59 pm    Post subject: Alternator Problem - Not in plane Reply with quote

OK, I give up and need some help and some new blood for this one.

I have gone through 4 alternator:
2 New
1 Rebuilt
1 Junk Yard

I put them on the Pep Boys test bench and run them at test speed and load.
Here is the results:
ALL have shown an out put of 10.5 V and 60 to 80 Amps.

I then had the opportunity to use a home made test bench on two of the
alternators:
1 New
1 Rebuilt
Here are the results:
12.2 V (at) 80 Amps
??? I do not recall the voltage but the amperage was 65 Amps

Now, as I'm sure you all know you cannot charge a battery with 12.2 V. You
need 13.8 to 14.2 V
So, what do you think the problem is?
BTW, the alternators are from a 1999 Hyundai Elantra Station Wagon.

I even went to a Hyundai Dealer ... They don't have a clue.

Barry


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altoq(at)cebridge.net
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 4:50 pm    Post subject: Alternator Problem - Not in plane Reply with quote

Barry,

Diode (One of three pressed into the case) or diode trio.

Shot in the Dark
John D.

DO NOT ARCHIVE


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ceengland(at)bellsouth.ne
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 7:40 pm    Post subject: Alternator Problem - Not in plane Reply with quote

FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com wrote:

Quote:


OK, I give up and need some help and some new blood for this one.

I have gone through 4 alternator:
2 New
1 Rebuilt
1 Junk Yard

I put them on the Pep Boys test bench and run them at test speed and load.
Here is the results:
ALL have shown an out put of 10.5 V and 60 to 80 Amps.

I then had the opportunity to use a home made test bench on two of the
alternators:
1 New
1 Rebuilt
Here are the results:
12.2 V (at) 80 Amps
??? I do not recall the voltage but the amperage was 65 Amps

Now, as I'm sure you all know you cannot charge a battery with 12.2 V. You
need 13.8 to 14.2 V
So, what do you think the problem is?
BTW, the alternators are from a 1999 Hyundai Elantra Station Wagon.

I even went to a Hyundai Dealer ... They don't have a clue.

Barry


Are they really rated to put out 60-80 amps? If not, try loading them at
rated output current.


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FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 11:42 pm    Post subject: Alternator Problem - Not in plane Reply with quote

In a message dated 9/8/06 8:52:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
altoq(at)cebridge.net writes:

Quote:
Barry,

Diode (One of three pressed into the case) or diode trio.

Shot in the Dark
John D.
=================================

John:

I don't believe the diode pack would be bad in ALL 4 alternators, especially
2 NEW alternators right off the shelf. I know, I know, weirder things have
happened but the logic says no. And why would I get the 60 to 80 Amps output?
Unfortunately none of these test benches have a 'O' Scope hooked up to them.

Barry


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FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 11:42 pm    Post subject: Alternator Problem - Not in plane Reply with quote

In a message dated 9/8/06 11:43:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ceengland(at)bellsouth.net writes:

Quote:
Are they really rated to put out 60-80 amps? If not, try loading them at
rated output current.
==============================================

Charlie:

What is that going to do? I already get 60 to 80 Amps out and that is way
more than what the load requires.

Barry


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ceengland(at)bellsouth.ne
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 6:50 am    Post subject: Alternator Problem - Not in plane Reply with quote

FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com wrote:

Quote:


In a message dated 9/8/06 11:43:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ceengland(at)bellsouth.net writes:



>Are they really rated to put out 60-80 amps? If not, try loading them at
> rated output current.
>
>
==============================================
Charlie:

What is that going to do? I already get 60 to 80 Amps out and that is way
more than what the load requires.

Barry


If they came off small cars, they might not be rated for that much
current & unable to maintain voltage if you demand excess current.

Another thought: are they internally or externally regulated? If
external & you're using a regulator built into the test set, are you
sure the test set regulator is set correctly and are you sure the test
set voltmeter is accurate? Getting the same volt reading for all using
one test set & a different, same volt reading for all on another test
set seems to point at the test sets.


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bob(at)bob-white.com
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 6:54 am    Post subject: Alternator Problem - Not in plane Reply with quote

On Sat, 9 Sep 2006 03:38:42 EDT
FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com wrote:

Quote:


In a message dated 9/8/06 11:43:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ceengland(at)bellsouth.net writes:

> Are they really rated to put out 60-80 amps? If not, try loading them at
> rated output current.
==============================================
Charlie:

What is that going to do? I already get 60 to 80 Amps out and that is way
more than what the load requires.

Barry


Hi Barry,

What Charlie is saying is maybe you are overloading the alternator. Put
a smaller load on, no more than the rated output and see what the
voltage is.

Bob W.

--
http://www.bob-white.com
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 (first engine start 1/7/06)
Custom Cables for your rotary installation -
http://www.roblinphoto.com/shop/


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FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2006 3:35 am    Post subject: Alternator Problem - Not in plane Reply with quote

In a message dated 9/9/06 10:54:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
ceengland(at)bellsouth.net writes:

Quote:
If they came off small cars, they might not be rated for that much
current & unable to maintain voltage if you demand excess current.

Another thought: are they internally or externally regulated? If
external & you're using a regulator built into the test set, are you
sure the test set regulator is set correctly and are you sure the test
set voltmeter is accurate? Getting the same volt reading for all using
one test set & a different, same volt reading for all on another test
set seems to point at the test sets.
=====================================

Charlie:

The rated amperage of the alternator is 90 Amps.
Normal draw is about 15 Amps.
It is internally regulated.
The test benches are at automotive parts stores and rebuilding shops.
At both locations, on all 4 alternators the output was 10.5 V.

This is a crazy problem. It is not a simple problem. I know there is
someone out there with the knowledge and past experience of this situation. If is
was simple I would have solved it months ago. NO ONE has been able to identify
the problem. Not even Hyundai or Bosch. And it is their alternator's!
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"


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bob(at)bob-white.com
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 5:18 pm    Post subject: Alternator Problem - Not in plane Reply with quote

On Sun, 10 Sep 2006 07:34:43 EDT
FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com wrote:

Quote:


In a message dated 9/9/06 10:54:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
ceengland(at)bellsouth.net writes:

> If they came off small cars, they might not be rated for that much
> current & unable to maintain voltage if you demand excess current.
>
> Another thought: are they internally or externally regulated? If
> external & you're using a regulator built into the test set, are you
> sure the test set regulator is set correctly and are you sure the test
> set voltmeter is accurate? Getting the same volt reading for all using
> one test set & a different, same volt reading for all on another test
> set seems to point at the test sets.
=====================================
Charlie:

The rated amperage of the alternator is 90 Amps.
Normal draw is about 15 Amps.
It is internally regulated.
The test benches are at automotive parts stores and rebuilding shops.
At both locations, on all 4 alternators the output was 10.5 V.

This is a crazy problem. It is not a simple problem. I know there is
someone out there with the knowledge and past experience of this situation. If is
was simple I would have solved it months ago. NO ONE has been able to identify
the problem. Not even Hyundai or Bosch. And it is their alternator's!


Barry
"Chop'd Liver"

Hi Barry,


I've been thinking about your alternator problem. I wonder if it could
be as simple as having a bit of series resistance between the
alternator and the voltmeter. At 90 amps, you only need 0.04 to 0.05
ohms to see that kind of voltage drop. Test equipment I've seen at
parts stores have a big clips to connect to the alternator and I could
easily imagine having that much resistance in the connections.
Particularly with 90 amps running through them. The fact that the
voltage varied from 10.5 V to 12.2 V with a different tester is an
indication of that kind of problem. (Or the voltmeters aren't very
accurate.)

If possible, try the test with a voltmeter connected directly to the B
lead and alternator case so that none of the test current is flowing in
the leads to the voltmeter.
Bob W.
--
http://www.bob-white.com
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 (first engine start 1/7/06)
Custom Cables for your rotary installation -
http://www.roblinphoto.com/shop/


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