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Wingtip Misallignment

 
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barp99(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 2:54 am    Post subject: Wingtip Misallignment Reply with quote

I am fitting the aileron to the wing on my XS and have noticed that the
wingtip appears to be reduxed onto the wing crooked, so that the aileron
closeout at the wingtip is approx 6mm too high. This causes the lower
aileron skin from the outer hinge to the wingtip to protrude lower that
the wing lower skin.

Has anyone successfully removed an XS wingtip from the wing without
damaging the wing skin or foam core, and if so, how did you do it?

Cheers,
Brian.


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pjeffers(at)talktalk.net
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 3:59 am    Post subject: Wingtip Misallignment Reply with quote

Hi Brian,
Before even trying to remove the tip I would like to see your problem. There is a saying that a photo is worth a million words. So if you could send photos of your problem we may be able to help more. You mention foam core. Are we talking of light brown foam or blue foam. This may sound an odd question but it will identify your build type and that could influence the final answer.
Pete Jeffers Inspector to The Europa Club

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budyerly@msn.com



Joined: 05 Oct 2019
Posts: 281
Location: Florida USA

PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 6:56 am    Post subject: Re: Wingtip Misallignment Reply with quote

Normally just the tip is high and the wing is not twisted. Don't over think it. Sand the exposed part of the tip inside for glass prep. Just cut the tip and angle it down. To do a really neat job you'll be proud of, cut it down from the top around the curve stopping before the lower skin and bend the tip down to satisfy and use a wood shim to hold it in place. Tack it with super glue a popsicle stick running chord wise to keep the tip in place and remove your shim from the gap. Apply two layers of bid overlapping the cut some one and a half to two inches around your wound. Allow to cure, fill sand and get on with the fun. It's just fiberglass, but you will use that tip to grasp the wing for rigging/de-rigging, so glass the tip properly.

Happy building,

Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 1:34 pm    Post subject: Wingtip Misallignment Reply with quote

Thanks very much for that Bud, that is exactly what I needed! As you
say, I was trying to overthink it. I really appreciate your advice,
thanks again!

Cheers,
Brian
Aus.

On 27/03/2020 1:56 am, budyerly(at)msn.com wrote:
Quote:


Normally just the tip is high and the wing is not twisted. Don't over think it. Sand the exposed part of the tip inside for glass prep. Just cut the tip and angle it down. To do a really neat job you'll be proud of, cut it down from the top around the curve stopping before the lower skin and bend the tip down to satisfy and use a wood shim to hold it in place. Tack it with super glue a popsicle stick running chord wise to keep the tip in place and remove your shim from the gap. Apply two layers of bid overlapping the cut some one and a half to two inches around your wound. Allow to cure, fill sand and get on with the fun. It's just fiberglass, but you will use that tip to grasp the wing for rigging/de-rigging, so glass the tip properly.

Happy building,

Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations.


Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495445#495445



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budyerly@msn.com



Joined: 05 Oct 2019
Posts: 281
Location: Florida USA

PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 6:42 am    Post subject: Re: Wingtip Misallignment Reply with quote

Brian,
Don't overlook that initial statement to check for twist.

During the initial setting of the wing sockets, I use two level saw horses or trestles to set my socket and at the same time, I set the incidence using the root incidence board on both wings dead even. I also make a wing tip incidence board. I align the tops of these two boards and check each wing to the other.

Carpenters have made dead flat tables for years with just two straight sticks set on the end to get the top level. I use the same technique. Stand back and check the "sticks" are dead level with no twist on one wing, then go to the other wing and set the incidence boards in the same place on the other wing and check. If the wings are very close (and they normally are). I press on.

Then make no mistake, I set the flaps using the root incidence board exactly the same on each wing. If they aren't, fix it. One flap may be high, or set farther back, whatever, make them the same. If the flap brackets are off, make or buy new ones and get it right. Then set the ailerons with the flaps. If the tip isn't quite right (many times slightly high). Then I cut it.

That careful work during the build will pay dividends during the trimming phase of your flight test period. But things don't always go as planned.

See my Trimming 101 for a already built wing. Yes, I have cosmic T square holders made from nylon blocks that hold my T squares in exactly the same place. But I also rely on my Mark One eyeball, and that tip incidence board will come in handy.

Best Regards,
Bud Yerly


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 9:17 pm    Post subject: Wingtip Misallignment Reply with quote

Bud,

Thanks for that. I was relying on the wingtips being at the correct
angle, and setting the ailerons up to match the wingtips, and then
setting the flaps to match the ailerons. Now I understand I need to set
the flap using the root incidence board. Then matching the ailerons to
match the flaps. I will need to check for twist. As you say, I am being
as careful as possible during the build to reduce trimming during test
the test phase.

Cheers,
Brian Phillips,
489.

On 30/03/2020 1:43 am, budyerly(at)msn.com wrote:
Quote:


Brian,
Don't overlook that initial statement to check for twist.

During the initial setting of the wing sockets, I use two level saw horses or trestles to set my socket and at the same time, I set the incidence using the root incidence board on both wings dead even. I also make a wing tip incidence board. I align the tops of these two boards and check each wing to the other.

Carpenters have made dead flat tables for years with just two straight sticks set on the end to get the top level. I use the same technique. Stand back and check the "sticks" are dead level with no twist on one wing, then go to the other wing and set the incidence boards in the same place on the other wing and check. If the wings are very close (and they normally are). I press on.

Then make no mistake, I set the flaps using the root incidence board exactly the same on each wing. If they aren't, fix it. One flap may be high, or set farther back, whatever, make them the same. If the flap brackets are off, make or buy new ones and get it right. Then set the ailerons with the flaps. If the tip isn't quite right (many times slightly high). Then I cut it.

That careful work during the build will pay dividends during the trimming phase of your flight test period. But things don't always go as planned.

See my Trimming 101 for a already built wing. Yes, I have cosmic T square holders made from nylon blocks that hold my T squares in exactly the same place. But I also rely on my Mark One eyeball, and that tip incidence board will come in handy.

Best Regards,
Bud Yerly


Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495461#495461



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