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Installing the engine cowl

 
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trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 5:29 am    Post subject: Installing the engine cowl Reply with quote

Guys

Is it possible to install the bottom half of the engine cowl (Van’s stock) having the propeller (standard 2-blade CS) already installed?

If yes, how is it done?

Thanks in advance
Carlos


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Kelly McMullen



Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 6:05 am    Post subject: Installing the engine cowl Reply with quote

I am guessing that you really mean with a 3 bladed prop. AFAIK there is no issue with a two blade prop, as you just put prop in horizontal position.
With 3 blade you have to modify the cowling to get clearance between the nose gear leg(cowl bottom) and the prop blades(cowl top), and it still is a PITA.
With any prop, spinner clearance with front of cowling is a factor that you have to address when fitting the cowling to allow the cowling to go forward just enough to clear the baffle seals from the front baffling.

Kelly
(with nice 3 blade MT prop)
Quote:
Sent from my TRS-80 Model 100


On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 6:33 AM Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt (trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt)> wrote:

Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt (trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt)>

Guys

Is it possible to install the bottom half of the engine cowl (Van’s stock) having the propeller (standard 2-blade CS) already installed?

If yes, how is it done?

Thanks in advance
Carlos




 


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Kelly McMullen
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trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 6:37 am    Post subject: Installing the engine cowl Reply with quote

Kelly

It is indeed a 2-blade Hartzell stock prop.
But I think you already gave the answer I need: I have to rework the front lips of the cowl, near the aluminium baffles, to allow bigger clearance.
Is it?
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone

Quote:
No dia 05/11/2019, às 14:10, Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> escreveu:

I am guessing that you really mean with a 3 bladed prop. AFAIK there is no issue with a two blade prop, as you just put prop in horizontal position.
With 3 blade you have to modify the cowling to get clearance between the nose gear leg(cowl bottom) and the prop blades(cowl top), and it still is a PITA.
With any prop, spinner clearance with front of cowling is a factor that you have to address when fitting the cowling to allow the cowling to go forward just enough to clear the baffle seals from the front baffling.

Kelly
(with nice 3 blade MT prop)
Quote:
Sent from my TRS-80 Model 100


On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 6:33 AM Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt (trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt)> wrote:

Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt (trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt)>

Guys

Is it possible to install the bottom half of the engine cowl (Van’s stock) having the propeller (standard 2-blade CS) already installed?

If yes, how is it done?

Thanks in advance
Carlos










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joeawaltz(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 7:02 am    Post subject: Installing the engine cowl Reply with quote

Save yourself all the heartache and pain by cutting off the snorkle and making it removable. Much easier to fab cowling to aircraft and filter box transition. Makes it WAY easier to remove the cowl. If wanted you could even do an oil change and service your fuel injector servo without removing the top or bottom cowl halves. If desired, you can now make the lower cowl 2 piece (split down the middle) for simple one person removal/installation.
[img]cid:EFB2C91D-B61B-437E-A175-13AC857C726F[/img]
Joe
Quote:
On Nov 5, 2019, at 08:47, Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> wrote:

Kelly

It is indeed a 2-blade Hartzell stock prop.
But I think you already gave the answer I need: I have to rework the front lips of the cowl, near the aluminium baffles, to allow bigger clearance.
Is it?
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone

Quote:
No dia 05/11/2019, às 14:10, Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> escreveu:

I am guessing that you really mean with a 3 bladed prop. AFAIK there is no issue with a two blade prop, as you just put prop in horizontal position.
With 3 blade you have to modify the cowling to get clearance between the nose gear leg(cowl bottom) and the prop blades(cowl top), and it still is a PITA.
With any prop, spinner clearance with front of cowling is a factor that you have to address when fitting the cowling to allow the cowling to go forward just enough to clear the baffle seals from the front baffling.

Kelly
(with nice 3 blade MT prop)
Quote:
Sent from my TRS-80 Model 100


On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 6:33 AM Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt (trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt)> wrote:

Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt (trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt)>

Guys

Is it possible to install the bottom half of the engine cowl (Van’s stock) having the propeller (standard 2-blade CS) already installed?

If yes, how is it done?

Thanks in advance
Carlos












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joeawaltz(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 7:32 am    Post subject: Installing the engine cowl Reply with quote

Method?

Draw the cut line.
Cut through outside with Dremel tool leaving 1/4" tabs / attached sections every foot or so.
On inside, scuff the cowl surface / put release on the snorkle surface. I used PVA.
Lay up 3 layers of glass in strips that will become the flange. Let cure.
Drill #40 holes that will become the fastener locations.
On the outside, finish cutting the tabs that were left and pop off your removable snout.
Clean up the edges providing the usual paint gap.
Install your favorite means of attachment. Nutplates work fine.
Enjoy the ease of a two piece lower cowl.

Joe
Quote:
On Nov 5, 2019, at 09:00, Joe Waltz <joeawaltz(at)yahoo.com> wrote:

Save yourself all the heartache and pain by cutting off the snorkle and making it removable. Much easier to fab cowling to aircraft and filter box transition. Makes it WAY easier to remove the cowl. If wanted you could even do an oil change and service your fuel injector servo without removing the top or bottom cowl halves. If desired, you can now make the lower cowl 2 piece (split down the middle) for simple one person removal/installation.
<image0.jpeg>

Joe
Quote:
On Nov 5, 2019, at 08:47, Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> wrote:

Kelly

It is indeed a 2-blade Hartzell stock prop.
But I think you already gave the answer I need: I have to rework the front lips of the cowl, near the aluminium baffles, to allow bigger clearance.
Is it?
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone

Quote:
No dia 05/11/2019, às 14:10, Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> escreveu:

I am guessing that you really mean with a 3 bladed prop. AFAIK there is no issue with a two blade prop, as you just put prop in horizontal position.
With 3 blade you have to modify the cowling to get clearance between the nose gear leg(cowl bottom) and the prop blades(cowl top), and it still is a PITA.
With any prop, spinner clearance with front of cowling is a factor that you have to address when fitting the cowling to allow the cowling to go forward just enough to clear the baffle seals from the front baffling.

Kelly
(with nice 3 blade MT prop)
Quote:
Sent from my TRS-80 Model 100


On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 6:33 AM Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt (trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt)> wrote:

Quote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt (trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt)>

Guys

Is it possible to install the bottom half of the engine cowl (Van’s stock) having the propeller (standard 2-blade CS) already installed?

If yes, how is it done?

Thanks in advance
Carlos














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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt
Guest





PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 7:59 am    Post subject: Installing the engine cowl Reply with quote

Thank you Joe

I’ll give it a thought

Carlos

Enviado do meu iPhone

[quote] No dia 05/11/2019, às 15:37, Joe Waltz <joeawaltz(at)yahoo.com> escreveu:

Method?

Draw the cut line.

Cut through outside with Dremel tool leaving 1/4" tabs / attached sections every foot or so.

On inside, scuff the cowl surface / put release on the snorkle surface. I used PVA.

Lay up 3 layers of glass in strips that will become the flange. Let cure.

Drill #40 holes that will become the fastener locations.

On the outside, finish cutting the tabs that were left and pop off your removable snout.

Clean up the edges providing the usual paint gap.

Install your favorite means of attachment. Nutplates work fine.

Enjoy the ease of a two piece lower cowl.

Joe

>> On Nov 5, 2019, at 09:00, Joe Waltz <joeawaltz(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
> Save yourself all the heartache and pain by cutting off the snorkle and making it removable. Much easier to fab cowling to aircraft and filter box transition. Makes it WAY easier to remove the cowl. If wanted you could even do an oil change and service your fuel injector servo without removing the top or bottom cowl halves. If desired, you can now make the lower cowl 2 piece (split down the middle) for simple one person removal/installation


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Bob Turner



Joined: 03 Jan 2009
Posts: 881
Location: Castro Valley, CA

PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 8:35 am    Post subject: Re: Installing the engine cowl Reply with quote

Yes it is a tight fit. Because of the small clearance behind the spinner, you must keep the cowl near level while you raise it vertically. Working solo I use a couple of 2x4’s, supported by stools, sawhorses, etc., on either side of the engine, to support the cowl. Then incrementally raise each end. It was still hard until I did Kelly’s mod - I cut the cowl to extend the existing nose gear cutout forward, about 6 inches. This lets you lower the cowl straight down. Not sure about structural integrity, so I put the cutout piece back in, by epoxying it to an oversize piece of aluminum, with nutplates around the edge. I attach it to the cowling with screws. You still may need to carefully trim the rubber snorkle pieces, the aluminum baffle ‘ramps’, etc. Just a note, on my first test flights some RPM settings gave a strange vibration sound. I determined one of those aluminum ramps was a 1/16” too long, and could vibrate against the lower cowl lip. A little filing, noise went away.

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dan(at)syz.com
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 1:09 pm    Post subject: Installing the engine cowl Reply with quote

With my 3 bladed MT prop, I find the only reasonable way to get the lower cowl off is to remove the spinner. This gives an extra half inch or so of clearance to the prop backplate so I can get the cowl on and off. With that said, the modifications to the lower cowl suggested would seem to make things that much easier.

Dan

Quote:
On 2019-Nov-05, at 7:03 AM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> wrote:

I am guessing that you really mean with a 3 bladed prop. AFAIK there is no issue with a two blade prop, as you just put prop in horizontal position.
With 3 blade you have to modify the cowling to get clearance between the nose gear leg(cowl bottom) and the prop blades(cowl top), and it still is a PITA.
With any prop, spinner clearance with front of cowling is a factor that you have to address when fitting the cowling to allow the cowling to go forward just enough to clear the baffle seals from the front baffling.
Kelly
(with nice 3 blade MT prop)
Sent from my TRS-80 Model 100


On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 6:33 AM Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> wrote:


Guys

Is it possible to install the bottom half of the engine cowl (Van’s stock) having the propeller (standard 2-blade CS) already installed?

If yes, how is it done?

Thanks in advance
Carlos






---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213


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trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt
Guest





PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2019 5:01 am    Post subject: Installing the engine cowl Reply with quote

Thank you guys

With your suggestions I managed!

Cheers
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone

Quote:
No dia 05/11/2019, às 21:14, Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> escreveu:



With my 3 bladed MT prop, I find the only reasonable way to get the lower cowl off is to remove the spinner. This gives an extra half inch or so of clearance to the prop backplate so I can get the cowl on and off. With that said, the modifications to the lower cowl suggested would seem to make things that much easier.

Dan

> On 2019-Nov-05, at 7:03 AM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I am guessing that you really mean with a 3 bladed prop. AFAIK there is no issue with a two blade prop, as you just put prop in horizontal position.
> With 3 blade you have to modify the cowling to get clearance between the nose gear leg(cowl bottom) and the prop blades(cowl top), and it still is a PITA.
> With any prop, spinner clearance with front of cowling is a factor that you have to address when fitting the cowling to allow the cowling to go forward just enough to clear the baffle seals from the front baffling.
> Kelly
> (with nice 3 blade MT prop)
> Sent from my TRS-80 Model 100
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 6:33 AM Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> wrote:
>
>
> Guys
>
> Is it possible to install the bottom half of the engine cowl (Van’s stock) having the propeller (standard 2-blade CS) already installed?
>
> If yes, how is it done?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Carlos
>
>
>
>
>



---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213







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