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Fire proof barrier with Jabiru Engine

 
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tonyvaccarella



Joined: 10 Sep 2014
Posts: 68
Location: Australia
PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 5:32 am    Post subject: Fire proof barrier with Jabiru Engine Reply with quote
I'm at a point of installing my Jabiru engine and note that the Builders Manual in section 31 calls for the construction of a fire-proof barrier that is fitted to the landing gear frame.

I made a cardboard cutout as per the drawings in my manual only to find out that the drawing appear to be only for the Rotax installation and does not fit my Jabiru engine frame. So....Im wondering what other Europa builder who have Jabiru engines have done?

It appears to me that the Jabiru engine would site between the mounts and protrude further back than the Rotax. Therefore Im at a loss on how to proceed.

Any help from experienced builders would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Tony
VH-VOW

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Jabiru Engine Mount.jpg
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Tony Vaccarella
Mascot NSW 2020
Sydney Australia
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Nigel Graham



Joined: 23 Mar 2017
Posts: 36
Location: Winchester - UK
PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 4:01 am    Post subject: Re: Fire proof barrier with Jabiru Engine Reply with quote
Hi John,
I’ve been keeping a weather (snow) eye open and so far I’ve seen nothing in Meribel to make me want to rush out. I’m hoping the snow will arrive later in February or early March when the days are longer.
Can you clarify what you mean by “vent”? Are you planning a NACA style inlet or something like a moulded duct? (i.e. something that opens into the cowling rather than projecting out into the airstream).
Either way, for a splash moulding you need a good release system so that the tooling won’t inadvertently bod to the cowl. Use Meguires No. 8 wax (about six coats – lightly polishing after drying) and PVA release agent – lightly sprayed or applied by hand with a lint free cloth. (See Easy Composites for consumables).
For the splash moulding you can use polyester resin rather than epoxy – it’s much cheaper and cures faster – so you can crack on.
If you have it you can use Chopped Strand Mat (CSM) rather than woven glass cloth – it’s cheaper and easier to build up the thickness – though it doesn’t look so neat. (If you don’t have any – you can always use woven glass cloth).
Once cured and before you crack it off - drill two position reference holes through the splash moulding and the cowl – this will enable you to secure it in exactly the same spot using Cleco’s or small screws once you start using it to laminate the new vent. (The holes in the cowl can be filled later).
Once the splash mould has cured, you can mark out and cut the required aperture in the cowl.
From this point on, I need to know exactly what shape duct/vent/hole you wish to construct. Generally speaking, the best way to create a one-off vent is to shape some blue foam into the required profile, carefully stick self-adhesive aluminium tape (used for joining house building insulation block together) over the surface of the foam model to form a good surface and allow it to release after cure. Use the release agents above to coat the new foam model and the splash moulding, secure it in place (using the locating holes you drilled earlier and pop-rivets, Cleco’s or screws.
Then you can laminate the new vent from inside the cowl, having first thoroughly de-greased and rough-sanded the surrounding bond area.
The original Europa cowl was laminated using a temperature resistant polyester resin so that it could withstand the high engine bay temperatures. The normal epoxu laminating resin used in the construction of the Europa (Gurit SP20/21) will not tolerate high temperatures and will rapidly age harden – and scorch.
The resin I have use for this is the polyester tooling resin called “Optimould” – it cures to a white colour and will withstand the sort of temperatures found “under the hood”.
That should give you something to think about and get you started.
ATB
Nigel

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Mod 72 - Engine Mounting Frame Strengthening - MANDATORY.pdf
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Nigel Graham



Joined: 23 Mar 2017
Posts: 36
Location: Winchester - UK
PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 4:06 am    Post subject: Re: Fire proof barrier with Jabiru Engine Reply with quote
Ha! Sorry chaps .... too much builder support and too little attention to what's in the paste buffer ...

This is the text that Ishould have posted to Tony

Hi Tony,
Jabiru powered Europas are pretty rare (I don’t know of any) and I’m not sure if there are any builders who could advise you.
I think your only option is to trial fit the engine and make up your own templates …it’s all part of the fun of “homebuild”.
One thing that I did notice from your photo is that you are using a pre - January 2007 landing gear frame. These had thin-wall mounting tubes and were found to fatigue fracture in service. I’ve attach a picture of a typical failure. As a result of this, Europa issued a mod (Mod 72) that required you to ream out the top tubes and insert a reinforcing tube. I’ve attached that instruction FYI.
Since you haven’t yet installed your engine, now would be a good time to strengthen your frame.
HTH
Nigel

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alan.twigg775(at)gmail.co
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 4:15 am    Post subject: Fire proof barrier with Jabiru Engine Reply with quote
There is. Jabiru powered Europa in a hanger at Turweston, Andy Draper is also at Turweston.
I was there at the weekend but could not get access to the hangar.
Try Andy, I will also try to get some photos.
Alan Twigg
Kit 463
G-GIWT

Sent from my iPhone

Quote:
On 13 Jan 2019, at 12:06, Nigel Graham <nigel_graham(at)m-tecque.co.uk> wrote:



Ha! Sorry chaps .... too much builder support and too little attention to what's in the paste buffer ...

This is the text that Ishould have posted to Tony

Hi Tony,
Jabiru powered Europas are pretty rare (I don’t know of any) and I’m not sure if there are any builders who could advise you.
I think your only option is to trial fit the engine and make up your own templates …it’s all part of the fun of “homebuild”.
One thing that I did notice from your photo is that you are using a pre - January 2007 landing gear frame. These had thin-wall mounting tubes and were found to fatigue fracture in service. I’ve attach a picture of a typical failure. As a result of this, Europa issued a mod (Mod 72) that required you to ream out the top tubes and insert a reinforcing tube. I’ve attached that instruction FYI.
Since you haven’t yet installed your engine, now would be a good time to strengthen your frame.
HTH
Nigel




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budyerly(at)msn.com
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2019 7:05 am    Post subject: Fire proof barrier with Jabiru Engine Reply with quote
I totally agree Nigel,
It is just added insurance against cracking.

Dave Conrad and I just finished his. Reaming the lower tube requires an extension on the reamer. Dave bought a hand reamer square end so we could fit it to a inch extension and drive it with a drill. Dave elected to stop at the bolts. I think I would remove the bolt and drill the insert as well in the future.

Regards,
Bud Yerly

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Nigel Graham <nigel_graham(at)m-tecque.co.uk>
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2019 4:46:10 PM
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Fire proof barrier with Jabiru Engine


--> Europa-List message posted by: "Nigel Graham" <nigel_graham(at)m-tecque.co.uk>

My personal opinion is “yes. The reinforcing tubes supplied by the factory as part of the Mod 72 kit were about 100mm (4.0) long as I remember. This was intended to span the area known to fail on the top two tubes.

The latest spate of failures is occurring further inboard on the lower tubes. For anyone with a pre 2007 frame, I would suggest reinforcing all four landing gear mounting tubes for their full length. After January 2007, the factory produced the LG01 frame with thicker walled top tubes, so in this case, only the lower tubes would need reinforcing.

I am currently overhauling a mono and am actually in the process of writing up this mod to gain approval from our own regulating authority.

I notice that you fly a conventional gear. Since the landing load paths are completely different, I would think that you are highly unlikely to suffer from fractured lower tubes, so this discussion is probably academic in your case.

Nigel




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freddythek10(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2019 1:51 pm    Post subject: Fire proof barrier with Jabiru Engine Reply with quote
Bud,
By any chance, do you know the wall thickness of those lower tube stubs?

Fred
Quote:
On Jan 15, 2019, at 7:05 AM, Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com (budyerly(at)msn.com)> wrote:
I totally agree Nigel,
It is just added insurance against cracking.

Dave Conrad and I just finished his. Reaming the lower tube requires an extension on the reamer. Dave bought a hand reamer square end so we could fit it to a ½ inch extension and drive it with a drill. Dave elected to stop at the bolts. I think I would remove the bolt and drill the insert as well in the future.

Regards,
Bud Yerly




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budyerly(at)msn.com
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2019 6:09 pm    Post subject: Fire proof barrier with Jabiru Engine Reply with quote
The wall on the early frames is .049.


Bud Yerly

Custom Flight Creations


From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Fred Klein <freddythek10(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2019 4:44:27 PM
To: europa-list
Subject: Re: Re: Fire proof barrier with Jabiru Engine

Bud,
By any chance, do you know the wall thickness of those lower tube stubs?

Fred
Quote:
On Jan 15, 2019, at 7:05 AM, Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com (budyerly(at)msn.com)> wrote:
I totally agree Nigel,
It is just added insurance against cracking.

Dave Conrad and I just finished his. Reaming the lower tube requires an extension on the reamer. Dave bought a hand reamer square end so we could fit it to a inch extension and drive it with a drill. Dave elected to stop at the bolts. I think I would remove the bolt and drill the insert as well in the future.

Regards,
Bud Yerly






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