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Stuck Spark Plug

 
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Don.Alexander(at)astenjoh
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 11:17 am    Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug Reply with quote

Listers,
I had to take a break from my airplane project recently in order to sell
my now-deceased step father's truck. (93 Toyota 4 cyl. 133k miles) It
hasn't had much done to it in the way of p.m. other than oil changes
along the way. It had a stutter which I traced to a bad ignition wire
which was fixed with a new set of plug wires. I figured that as long as
I was taking the time to change the wires, I might as well change the
plugs. Three of the four came out with no problem. The fourth backed
out about a quarter of a turn and wouldn't move any further. I am using
a 8" ratchet handle and am putting quite a bit of force on it. I have
heard that with too much force, you can shear off a plug...that would
not be good. I have applied some penetrating oil, but so far, no luck.
Would an impact wrench be a bad solution?
PS- The plugs that I am putting back in are getting thread lube on them
Smile
Thanks
Do not archive
Tinman
RV-8 Finishing Kit


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BPA(at)bpaengines.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 12:32 pm    Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug Reply with quote

And that's the problem with spark plug #4. More than likely it has
galled the threads. I see a Heli-Coil repair coming! Sad

Allen Barrett
--


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rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 12:33 pm    Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug Reply with quote

I had this happen once. If what happened to me is happening to you, its too late, the threads are already galled and the more the spark plug is removed the more the threads are taken with it.

"Alexander, Don" <Don.Alexander(at)astenjohnson.com> wrote:

Listers,
I had to take a break from my airplane project recently in order to sell
my now-deceased step father's truck. (93 Toyota 4 cyl. 133k miles) It
hasn't had much done to it in the way of p.m. other than oil changes
along the way. It had a stutter which I traced to a bad ignition wire
which was fixed with a new set of plug wires. I figured that as long as
I was taking the time to change the wires, I might as well change the
plugs. Three of the four came out with no problem. The fourth backed
out about a quarter of a turn and wouldn't move any further. I am using
a 8" ratchet handle and am putting quite a bit of force on it. I have
heard that with too much force, you can shear off a plug...that would
not be good. I have applied some penetrating oil, but so far, no luck.
Would an impact wrench be a bad solution?
PS- The plugs that I am putting back in are getting thread lube on them
Smile
Thanks
Do not archive
Tinman
RV-8 Finishing Kit
Scott Bilinski
RV-8a
cell 858-395-5094

---------------------------------
Photo Books. You design it and well bind it!


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edchmiel(at)mindspring.co
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 12:57 pm    Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug Reply with quote

Hi Don,

Sounds like it may be binding due to corrosion. Try som 'PB
Blaster' or other penetrant, work the plug back inward then ease it out.
The threads in the head may be deteriorating, and you may be able to salvage
the head with a Helicoil kit. Good luck!

Ed in JXN

---


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longg(at)pjm.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 1:02 pm    Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug Reply with quote

Get heat on that plug, lots of heat. Don't melt it, but with enough heat it will
come out. The plug is softer than the block and will heat up quickly. You are
correct, you do not want to break it off (although you will probably just break
the tip).

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dancfi(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 6:11 pm    Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug Reply with quote

"Hi Don
Same thing happened to me on an old Mitsubishi pick up I bought. As one of the other posts said I used PB blaster very day for a week after driving it.I then worked the plug in and out a little more each day. After five days I shot it one last time and grunted with a braker bar. It came out. So did a few threads but not enough to hurt anything. New plug went rite in.
The old Piper service manuals suggested running the engine until hot and making a paper cone / funnel . After fitting the small end over the plug you give it a shot of CO2 (the cold stuff in fire extingwisher) The extreme cold is supposed to shrink the plug enough to free it up. Sounds good in theory never saw it done thou. Good luck!
Dan

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archie97(at)earthlink.net
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 6:43 pm    Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug Reply with quote

Have used that method several times.
And yes, it does work.
If the plug rotates a bit, you can also heat the area up,
and place some wax around the threads, (keeping the plug
in the center of the free area.).
It will melt into crevices, and not evaporate.
Amazing how well this frequently works.
Archie

---


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tedd(at)vansairforce.org
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 10:16 pm    Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug Reply with quote

On automotive engines I have always used Copaslip or a similar,
high-temperature anti-sieze compound on the spark plug threads. But many years
ago someone told that that this is a bad idea on engines with air cooled
cylinder heads, due to lowering the heat transfer between the plug and the
head. I've always thought this advice had "old wives tale" written all over
it, but it has nevertheless prevented me from using anti-sieze compound on
aircraft engines. Am I worried about nothing?

---

Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC, Canada


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archie97(at)earthlink.net
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:06 am    Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug Reply with quote

Aircraft plug manufacturers recommend using
a light anti seize compound on the threads, avoiding
getting any on the "nose" of the plug.
Most have their own, which is a bit thinner than
the more conventional anti-seize.

---


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lehmans(at)sympatico.ca
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:24 am    Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug Reply with quote

Tedd,

It is more important to use anti-seize on air cooled aircraft engines
because the aluminum head and therefore the threaded head-to-plug joint runs
much hotter than with liquid cooled engines.

I not seen any evidence that anti-seize affects plug temperature; it might
even reduce it by increasing thread contact area with the head. In any
event, I believe that any such change is negligible relative to other
factors.

I use anti-seize on all spark plugs used with aluminum heads (both air and
liquid cooled), either the usual paste type or plain graphite powder. I
suggest that the very long plug maintenance intervals with modern cars and
poor access with most V engines (to the plugs for 'rear' cylinders) makes
anti-seize increasingly important.

Mike ('with' aluminum Lycoming and aluminum auto heads)


On automotive engines I have always used Copaslip or a similar,
high-temperature anti-sieze compound on the spark plug threads. But many
years
ago someone told that that this is a bad idea on engines with air cooled
cylinder heads, due to lowering the heat transfer between the plug and the
head. I've always thought this advice had "old wives tale" written all over
it, but it has nevertheless prevented me from using anti-sieze compound on
aircraft engines. Am I worried about nothing?

---

Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC, Canada

--


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longg(at)pjm.com
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 6:39 am    Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug Reply with quote

Don't bother, just add heat. I noticed you live in B.C.; Add more heat than
usual.

--


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truflite(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 8:13 am    Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug Reply with quote

On our club aircraft, we do 50 hour inspections and
oil changes. Every inspection includes spark plug
cleaning and regapping. Before the plugs are
re-installed, a very small amount of Champion Spark
Plug Lubricant is applied to the threads. I must
emphasize, a very small amount is used. Over a period
of 2000 hours, that amounts 40 times the spark plugs
are removed and re-installed.

Dave
--- Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> wrote:

Quote:

<tedd(at)vansairforce.org>

On automotive engines I have always used Copaslip or
a similar,
high-temperature anti-sieze compound on the spark
plug threads. But many years
ago someone told that that this is a bad idea on
engines with air cooled
cylinder heads, due to lowering the heat transfer
between the plug and the
head. I've always thought this advice had "old
wives tale" written all over
it, but it has nevertheless prevented me from using
anti-sieze compound on
aircraft engines. Am I worried about nothing?

---

Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC, Canada





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GrummanDude



Joined: 15 Jan 2006
Posts: 926
Location: Auburn, CA

PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 10:48 am    Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug Reply with quote

I use the Permatex 'silver' anti-seize compound. I've never had any
problems with it.


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GrummanDude



Joined: 15 Jan 2006
Posts: 926
Location: Auburn, CA

PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 10:50 am    Post subject: Stuck Spark Plug Reply with quote

I did have a plug stick in a cylinder head on an O540 in a Commanche. When
the plug came out, the heli-coil came with it. THe owner claimed he always
used the Champion anti-seize. I've always used the Permatex anti-seize and
I've been very happy with it.


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