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First engine start

 
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glcasey(at)adelphia.net
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 4:42 am    Post subject: First engine start Reply with quote

I'm about to start my IO-540 for the first time after a rebuild (and
a couple hours of dyno time) by Ly-Con, followed by almost 6 months
of storage. The Lycoming recommendation is to fill the oil cooler
with oil, pull the plugs out and then crank the engine until it gets
pressure and then start the engine. Sounds reasonable to me. Any
other suggestions? I don't have the hardware required to pressurize
the system.

Gary Casey


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archie97(at)earthlink.net
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 6:24 am    Post subject: First engine start Reply with quote

Be sure to fill the oil filter with oil. (or as much as practicable).
It takes quite a few RPM before the system is fully pressurized,
and not until the filter has filled.

Watch the cyl temps if you are using factory type rings.
Not really an issue if you have converted to automotive.
Archie

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paxhia2(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 3:41 pm    Post subject: First engine start Reply with quote

I have a LyCon IO 540 EXP, I pulled the plugs and ran the starter for a
couple of minutes to oil the engine. Then started and ran minimal ground
time. The first 20 minutes full rpm (2700) and 24-25" MP and then 75% power
for the first hour. The 10 next hours or so never under 70% but short
periods of full power. Over 550 hours now, the engine runs great and uses a
qt of oil every 7-8 hours or so.
Al Paxhia
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glcasey(at)adelphia.net
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 5:48 am    Post subject: First engine start Reply with quote

That makes sense, Archie, but the filter on this engine is horizontal - how does one get it full of oil?  The only way I can think of is to take it off, fill it and then hope that stays in by the time I get it tightened.Gary

Quote:

From: "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net (archie97(at)earthlink.net)>
Subject: First engine start


--> LycomingEngines-List message posted by: "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net (archie97(at)earthlink.net)>


Be sure to fill the oil filter with oil. (or as much as practicable).
It takes quite a few RPM before the system is fully pressurized,
and not until the filter has filled.


Watch the cyl temps if you are using factory type rings.
Not really an issue if you have converted to automotive.
Archie


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archie97(at)earthlink.net
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 6:19 am    Post subject: First engine start Reply with quote

I understand those can be "messy", but
as long as the element is saturated, there is
that much of an advance in filling/priming.
Archie
[quote] ---


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Charles Heathco



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 201

PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 7:12 am    Post subject: First engine start Reply with quote

Casy, just put it on, fillthe sump with 7 qt W100 and start it up like all the rest of us do Smile Charlie Heathco
[quote] ---


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klwerner(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 7:36 am    Post subject: First engine start Reply with quote

Would chilling the (oil filled) filter in a freezer for a while slow down the ooze out of the oil?  Anyone ever tried this?
 
do not archive
[quote] ---


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esmith6(at)satx.rr.com
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 8:28 am    Post subject: First engine start Reply with quote

Gary..............This is what most folks do:  Spray a little oil in each cylinder through the spark plug holes with each piston at BDC, saturate the filter with oil, and start the rascal...NPS (Not a Perfect Science)...Perfection is wonderful, but not always possible...Some things we have to accept...Those few seconds without oil pressure shouldn't cause much wear...I don't think chilled oil is going to help the initial flow, but retard it...I have done this procedure, and friends have also, but if someone has a better way, then I do not advocate this at all................................CHEERS!!!!..................................Gene Smith.
 
Do not archive
 
[quote] ---


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jofrap1(at)JUNO.COM
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 10:58 am    Post subject: First engine start Reply with quote

If, as someone has stated before, you remove the top plugs and squirt in a little oil to lube the pistons then run the engine on the starter for a few minutes until the oil pressure comes up then you have oil in the filter and pretty much all inportant places and you should be ready to start the engine without damage.  Now that I think about it, isn't the oil filter bypassed when the oil is cold, or is it the other way around.
Joe


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mcculleyja(at)starpower.n
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 2:21 pm    Post subject: First engine start Reply with quote

Gary,

I used a pressure pot(as sometimes used with a pressure paint gun
system)and put about 6 to 8 quarts of engine oil in the container,
pressurized the pot to 50-70 psi of air (with the pot outlet closed),
disconnected the hose at the INLET fitting of the oil cooler and
connected the pot output to the end of that hose. Then I slowly and
partially opened the pot output valve to flow oil through the hose, open
vernatherm valve, oil filter, and simultaneously backwards through the
other oil cooler hose to purge air from the cooler and fill the cooler
with oil. When the oil cooler has filled and just starts to flow from
the fitting that the hose was removed from, quickly turn off the pot
flow and cap the cooler fitting. Then open the pot flow again and let
the pressure pot continue to feed at the 50 to 70 psi system pressure
until almost empty. This will flow oil through the oil filter,and the
oil galleys to all the bearings, thus flushing the system, and
collecting in the engine sump via leakage from the bearings, same as
when running. This will also pressurize the tappets and rocker arms via
the push rods, as well as provide oil spray to the cam shaft lobes and
other parts.

Be careful to shut off the flow from the pot before it empties and
starts to flow pressurized air into the engine. Reconnecting the removed
oil cooler hose can be done easily if you prepare ahead of time so that
the surrounding area is protected by a few rags. There will be no system
pressure--only some gravity flow depending on the oil cooler location.
With only one dry run to prepare for this reconnect task I found it can
be done consistently with less than a small spoonful of loss during the
reconnect.

If you do this procedure just minutes before you plan the first startup
you will find oil pressure comes up even while still turning with the
starter before the engine fires. This can assure having no momentary
dry bearing surfaces and more importantly, it should assure well coated
cam lobes and no dry, collapsed tappets.

I also used this procedure during the first few oil changes to
completely flush the entire system and better assure finding any
particles or contamination from the early break-in wearing process.

Jim McCulley
mcculleyja(at)starpower.net
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Gene Smith wrote:
[quote] Gary..............This is what most folks do: Spray a little oil in
each cylinder through the spark plug holes with each piston at BDC,
saturate the filter with oil, and start the rascal...NPS (Not a Perfect
Science)...Perfection is wonderful, but not always possible...Some
things we have to accept...Those few seconds without oil pressure
shouldn't cause much wear...I don't think chilled oil is going to help
the initial flow, but retard it...I have done this procedure, and
friends have also, but if someone has a better way, then I do not
advocate this at
all................................CHEERS!!!!...................................Gene
Smith.

Do not archive


---


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